Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Speed bleeders?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by keith, Apr 15, 2005.

  1. keith

    keith 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,158
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    La Fayette, GA
    I recently snapped the rear brake line. Replaced it. lost all the fluid. filled back up then opened the speed bleeders,pumped several times and nothing comes out. tried several times. I have the disc set up on there. any ideas :confused:
     
  2. NoSmog73

    NoSmog73 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2001
    Posts:
    2,348
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    lodi,ca
    It sound like you need to reset you proportioning valve ..
    IIRC you have to push in the rubber boot to re set the valve.. :D
     
  3. Eric M.

    Eric M. 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2001
    Posts:
    2,118
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    If you emptied the master cylinder, you'll need to remove it and bench bleed it. You'll need a bench bleeder kit (fittings threading into the master cylinder outlets with hoses that go back into the resevoirs of the master). Put the master in a vise (not to tight), fill it with brake fluid and pump it all the way using a long rod or screwdriver until you see no more bubbles coming up from where the bleeder hoses are submerged in the brake fluid. Then, reinstall the master.

    To bleed the brakes, a pressure bleeder works best. If not available, try this with 2 people. One person pumps the brakes 3 times, on the third pump, keep pressure on the peddle and yell to the person under the truck to open the bleeder screw, as soon as the peddle hits the floor, hold it there and yell to the other guy to tighten the bleeder. Keep doing this until a steady, clean stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder with no air. Start with the rear passenger side wheel cylinder, then the rear drivers side. If you are doing all 4 (which is usually a good idea if you have your buddy there anyways), move to the front passenger side and finish with the front drivers side. Keep an eye on the fluid in the master. If it goes empty, you'll have to pull the master and bench bleed it again.

    Bleeding the brakes by foot usually generates enough pressure to bypass the valve in the proportioning valve. If it doesn't or if you are using a pressure bleeder and find that no fluid is coming out of the front calipers whiling the bleeder is open, try pushing the button under the rubber boot on the proportioning valve. This button only affects the front, the backs should always bleed on a rear drum or 4 wheel drum set up. (This is a hold off valve you are bypassing, it will not allow fluid to the front brakes until it reaches a certin pressure - this allows the rear drum brakes to activate before the front calipers do and "catch up" with the calipers as they respond quicker to braking). On older GMs, most of these hold off valves are stuck open. I've only had to press that button on 2 different vehicles while bleeding brakes in the last 20 years.

    If you decide to rent a bleeder, just pressurize it and hook it up to the unit that fastens to the top of the master. Start at the rear passenger side and work your way around the truck just as mentioned above. Crack the bleeder valve and let it squirt out until you see a steady stream of clean fluid with no air. Close it and move on to the next. Make sure you keep the pressure up in the bleeder. Fill the bleeder full of fluid before you start ... if the master empties, you have to bench bleed it.


    Sorry for the long post, I get carried away when it comes to brakes!!

    Eric M.
     

Share This Page