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spindle locknut finger tight?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by stoney126, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. stoney126

    stoney126 1/2 ton status

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    Hey all, Im taking things apart on the axle and the spindle lock nuts are only finger tight. Both sides were like this. Is this correct?
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    they don't have to be super tight but should probably be a little tighter than that. Did they have the lock plates in place? (sheetmetal thingers that have the tabs bent over to lock the lock nut). The lock nuts are just jamnuts for the wheel bearing adjustment nut so all they have to do is prevent that nut from backing off.

    I usually give them a quick strong tap and thats all to tighten them.
     
  3. stoney126

    stoney126 1/2 ton status

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    yup lock plate was there. I just thought it was wierd . I keep reading about a special socket that is needed but I backed em off with my finger. Perhaps the socket im thinking of is for something else.

    Im glad you brough tthe lockplates up, I had no clue what they were for :P
     
  4. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    If we are talking about front axles , live axles , straighht axles , pick your name .

    You adjust the bearings like normal with the inner nut , then you put the washer with the little nub on it in , then you take the nut with the holes for the nub and tighten it as per the torque specs ( I use as tight as I can get it ) .

    Ya'll must be talking about another axle if you have tabs to bend over .
     
  5. stoney126

    stoney126 1/2 ton status

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    Its an 8 lug 10bolt front axle
     
  6. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmm. didn't know 10 bolts ever used the tanged washers. Always thought they used the regular swiss cheeze lock washer (washer with a buch of holes around it). Anyways- the correct way to adjust these is to put the bearing in and the first spindle nut- the one with teh lil nub on it facing out. Torque to 50 ft #s the back off and torque to 30. insert the lock washer or tanged washer and either flip the holie washer around till it lines up with the nub or ever so slightly snug the nubbed nut down so it will align (this can be cumbersom) If you have the tanged washer bend one of the tabs back so it interlocks with a slot on the nut. Now spin on and torque the locking nut- Umm, 30 or 50 ft #s can't remember.
     
  7. AKbigsub

    AKbigsub 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    That explanation sounds pretty close!
    Every 10 bolt I have worked on had the washer with the holes in it AND the tabs to bend over. The tabs work great to grab ahold of with the needle-nosed pliers during disassembly.
    As to the question about finger tight being correct; it is not right but is very common.
    And good for anyone willing to post questions like this. It makes us all more informed and capable!
     
  8. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    the rear axles have the spider washers. the fronts don't they have the little pin on the inner nut with the washer that has all the holes that once tight on the inner bearing you back it off til the hole lines up. then torque the outer nut up to the washer.
     
  9. stoney126

    stoney126 1/2 ton status

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    heh ill just show a pic:D

    trucks.jpg
     
  10. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Exactly , I have never had to bend any damn tab over . Looks to me its too thick to do that anyway on a 10b front .
     
  11. stoney126

    stoney126 1/2 ton status

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    anyone have a part number for the spindle socket? I went to kragens and Napa and they dont have seem to have it
     
  12. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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  13. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I have a hammer and a screwdriver for that job, LOL
     
  14. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    ditto :D
     
  15. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Use a liftime warranty screwdriver if your gonna use tools wrong , cheapskate :p::wink1:
     
  16. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    you don't ALWAYS need the "correct tool" to get the job done :wink1:
     
  17. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    NO you don't always need the correct tool , but how the hell do you get the locknut over 100 ft lbs without it :rolleyes:

    Well hell , you should go be an engineer with GM , save them some money by telling em not to tighten them nuts up :p:
     
  18. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    torque specs are just there for people who are unsure of their work,:p:
    not 100 % neccessary(outside of an engine), and as long as you have the feel for what is tight, (like i like'em :doah: ) it's always worked fine for me anyways.
     
  19. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    It could work fine for you , but a screwdriver at the angle its at ( it is deep in there , you can't get ot straight ) would never apply enough torque to it .

    Oh well .
     
  20. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    hmm, yup, I understand what you are saying, but hey, my wheel/s has never fallen off yet :D :haha: :p:

    and do you break out the torque wrench when you mount up your new wheels and tires?

    I know alot of tire shops do, but the regular Joe Schmoe doesn't usually.:p:
     

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