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spindle nut tq

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by blazeonchevy, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. blazeonchevy

    blazeonchevy 1/2 ton status

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    how much do i torque the inner spindle nut to and the outer one too. i seem to remember that they are different something like 35inner/50outer or so.. i may be wrong but i know this is just a baseline and you can do it by feel. im replacing the ujoints inside the axle. or wheeljoints. whatever you call them. they look like ujoints to me and i got them already. so any help as to the tq spec. is appreciated. and i was planning on doing this in a little bit so if you know the answer dont be shy. hah. ok thanks. -sam-
     
  2. blazeonchevy

    blazeonchevy 1/2 ton status

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    sorry i forgot.. if this makes a difference. its on a 76. dana44 fulltime 4wd. thanks.
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Torque the inner nut to 50ft. lbs. as you rotate the rotor then back it off and re-torque it to 35ft. lbs. then back loose no more than 3/8 of a turn, now install the washer and torque the outer nut to 50ft. lbs.
     
  4. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    According to my factory repair manual...the inner nut torques at 50 ft lbs. Then you back it off and re-torque at 35 ft lbs. Then back off 3/8 of a turn. I always just back off a little and spin the rotor until it spins pretty freely without snagging. Then, according to the manual, the outer nut torques at 160-200 ft lbs. I always just tighten it the best I can since 160 is hard to achieve, Whatever you do, make sure you get the "nipple" on the lock ring lined up with one of the holes in the other ring, or the spindle nuts will back themselves off while you are driving and eat your wheel bearings.
    -Harrison
     
  5. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Oh, and if it makes you feel any better, ive done this many times to several different vehicles without a torque wrench. Just tighten the inner nut pretty good then back off. Then tighten the outer nut while spinning the rotor until the rotor begins to snag. Then back off until it spins free. Some people on here will tell you its dangerous to do without a torque wrench, but neither I or anyone in my family for that matter, have ever had a spindle nut or wheel bearing fail because we didnt use a torque wrench. I have however not correctly lined the "nipple" up with one of the holes and had the nuts back off while I was driving.:eek1:
    -Harrison
     
  6. blazeonchevy

    blazeonchevy 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for yalls replys. ive been working on it this morning.. i have another problem though. the last time i had this apart the outer spindle nut was grinding against the gear inside the hub. but i corrected that and now the end of the spindle has been grinding the gear :mad: . should there be something to separate the gear from the spindle?im not sure what to do... any advice is great. thanks -sam-
     
  7. goldwing2000

    goldwing2000 Guest

    87BrnRsd: The '73-'80 torque specs are different than '81-up. The torque for the outer nut on a '76 would be 80 ft-lbs.

    blazeon: I'll check my '79 FSM and post the picture of the cut-away drawing (how everything should be put together).
     

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