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Spun the rearend out from underneath my Blazer

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by abusedtrucks, May 22, 2002.

  1. abusedtrucks

    abusedtrucks Registered Member

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    I was out wheeling on Saturday with my 83 K5, and I spun the whole rearend out from underneath it. I kinda figured something like that was going to happen since it had blocks (I bought it this way). I ordered new BDS 6" springs for it, so hopefully they'll be here soon. I was going to do the 4" shackles with 2" springs, but the price of these 6" springs were right ($164.00 per spring with lifetime waranty).

    My question is about the driveshaft angle. I have an NP208 t-case that has been dropped an inch. I could lower it a little more I guess. The angle of the driveshaft is still really nasty though, and I keep going through yokes. Normally, I wouldn't care, but it's a pain in the butt to have to pound in new u-joints every couple days.

    Is there a way to prevent this, but still keep a 6" suspension lift? I was going to do a 4" suspension with 2" body, but I didn't, for whatever reason. Does anybody have any tips to prevent this from happening every other day?

    Thanks.

    http://www.abusedtrucks.com/4X4/83blazer.php
     
  2. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Get a 1 ton CV drive shaft.
     
  3. abusedtrucks

    abusedtrucks Registered Member

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    Do they have to be custom made to fit a Blazer? Or is there a specific vehicle that already uses them that I could snag one from?

    Sorry for the basic question. I'm new to Blazers. I usually ran IFS Chev trucks. I just got sick of replacing CV shafts all the time, and I wanted the shorter wheel base.

    Thanks again.
     
  4. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry, there aren't any vehicles that I know of that use the slip yoke AND have a c/v besides some older cadillacs, but the splines on the slipyoke for those don't extend to the end (no good for wheelin'). If you don't feel the need to go 1ton, www.mountaindriveline.com can make you a 1/2ton c/v shaft with slipyoke for the 208 for $240. When you change to a c/v shaft, you should point the pinion straight at the T-case, you will be able to raise your T-case when you switch too.
     
  5. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Have you tried axle shims? They are tapered so they point the differential up at a better angle to the xfer case. You should be able to get them with your springs from BDS
     
  6. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    Yea, the shims or relocating your spring perches to point your pumpkin towards the tranny more.
     
  7. ZK5

    ZK5 1/2 ton status

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    Call Tom woods Custom driveshafts in Augen Utah. He warranties his work. He can make you a c/v jointed shaft for a blazer. I'm going to him for 1 myself. Also the angle of your driveshaft out of the t-case, should match the angle of the driveshaft to the rear end to within 2 degrees.. NEVER point your pinion directly at the t-case. this casues brenneling of the bearing caps. and destroys U-joints. 6" of lift on any blazer,bronco or jeep is cursed with this problem due to the short wheel base and severe driveline angle. But it can be done right.
     
  8. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    thats not what i have read. on a CV the drive shaft should be inline with the pinion...
    maybe i am wrong, but i see it all to offten with a CV shaft to argue with it.
    angles should match(pinion to t-case) on a standard shaft. i don know this
    grant
     
  9. blazentank

    blazentank 1/2 ton status

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    Are you supposed to have shims in the front for a 4 inch lift. and for the rear are shims basically the same thing as having tapered blocks where the blocks are a little angled.
     
  10. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    On any driveshaft that does not have a cardin joint, you must have the same operating angles on both ends of the shaft. If you do have a cardin joint shaft then you must point the pinion at the trans-case or another words, pinion and driveline should be inline with each other.
     
  11. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i have seen a few trucks that need shims in the front. but the best way to find out is get an angle finder and check your diff and t-case. the angled blocks are ok. but they are the "average" change. a shorter w/b truck needs different ammounts than a longed w/b truck
    grant
     
  12. ZK5

    ZK5 1/2 ton status

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    Really? I did not know that. Tom Woods never mentioned that when I called them to make mine. I havent gotten it yet anyway. So OK, Then what was that I heard about the slip yoke on the CV not having enough spline in the T-case yoke? Should I be having doubts about this shaft?
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Many guys won't make a slip yoke CV for that very reason. If you wheel hard, I'd be worried big time.
     
  14. abusedtrucks

    abusedtrucks Registered Member

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    Thanks for all of your feedback. Just to confirm everything now....

    I have a slipyoke (that I keep breaking) already. Am I supposed to still get a CV shaft AND point my diff up towards the T-case? I would like to know soon because I just got a call saying my new springs came in. I can't pick them up till after the weekend though because of the holiday.

    Also, I blew out both of my rear Rancho shocks. I don't like Rancho anyway. I like my bilsteins on my 95 Z71. Will these shocks be sufficient for my 83 K5 as an off-roader? Or should I just order up another round of Ranchos?

    Thanks again for the feedback.
     
  15. ZK5

    ZK5 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmm, OK so let me ask this. What other option do I have. Is it possible to install a bolt on yoke to my NP208 without changing the output shaft? And if so, would the rear shaft have to be similar to the front shaft with the slip yoke built into the shaft? and a CV joint at the top?
     
  16. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    We all wish that you could do that. Unfortunately, you can't. There "may" be a kit to do this coming to market soon. For now, you can change a 208 to fixed yoke by finding a Dodge 208 T-case with the fixed yoke. You take both apart and make a box with Chevy input and front output and Dodge rear output. If I could find one for a decent price, I would have done this already. Otherwise, you have to go to a different T-case to get the fixed yoke.

    And there are full-spline slip-yokes available now for the big C/V joints. They just cost more because someone is custom machining them. This setup will be no more likely to fall out than the original driveshaft of the same length. High Angle and Tom Woods both sell them.
     

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