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starter cones.. interchangable?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Dec 26, 2005.

  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]
    The starter on the left came out of my burb, which is mated with a th400.
    The one on the left would grind and slip loose from the flexplate sometimes, and may have slightly boogered teeth.

    So I was hoping to use the starter on the right, which came from the motor I just swapped in. This was mated to a manual tranny (don't worry, I have the correct flexplate installed on this motor now). But the cone design looks different, and it seemed like it wanted to butt up against the tranny, when I tried to bolt it up a few minutes ago. Perhaps I was just holding it at a bad angle, as its kinda awkward to do.

    SO: Will these starters interchange?
    thanks,
    James
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Yes the nose coses on the starters are interchangable
     
  3. jk3078

    jk3078 1/2 ton status

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    Yes,some are anyway. did one awhile ago,old 72 4 speed to late 70s motor/flywheel.
     
  4. 76zimmer

    76zimmer Flyin Rat Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    some really old ones from the 60's (yeh I worked on those alot, as those were my first cars) had a staggered bolt pattern, instead of the parallel pattern, that late models have.
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The difference is 153 and 168 tooth flywheels. Staggered for one, parallel for the other.

    IMO the nose cone should be kept when swapping starters...it's what sets the flywheel to bendix engagement. When starters grind, that's typically the reason. If the nose cone is kept the same, the relationship stays the same. I know they've got a bushing in the nose, and if bad, it should be replaced or swapped, but if it's good, I see no reason not to keep the nose cone.
     
  6. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    well, I took off the starter on the left, and I DID end up sucessfully bolting up the starter on the left to the new motor. The flexplates are both 168 tooth. my old starter did grind, and I'm not sure why (I think the old flexplate had some worn teeth) I'm really hoping the new setup doesn't grind.

    When I bolted up my torque coverter to the flexplate, it was kinda odd, because two of the bolt holes seemed like they were seated right against the flexplate, but one of the bolt holes had the flexplate and TC sitting about 1/2 inch apart... I hope this doesn't mean that my flexplate or torque converter is warped...

    whatever be the case, I guess I'll just get her put back together, cross my fingers, turn the key, and pray not to hear that nerve shattering metalic squeal.. :doah:
    thanks,
    James
     
  7. 76zimmer

    76zimmer Flyin Rat Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    You may have to shim the starter away from the flywheel if its grinding, indicating not enough clearance between the teeth of the starter and flywheel.
     
  8. driney

    driney 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If you haven't tried to fire it up yet, I'd investigate this further. Something doesn't sound right.
     
  9. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Is something wrong???

    What should I investigate? I'm wondering if my torque converter is warped somehow???? That could be the reason the old starter made grinding noises?
    thanks,
    James
    PS: I wonder if I just torqued one or 2 of the flexplate bolts a little too much at first, and it made the plate temporarily sit uneven???
     
  10. wildmouse216

    wildmouse216 1/2 ton status

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    I tried to put an automatic starter in my manual one time and the bolts lined up but the starter didn't engage the flywheel enough and the teeth just ground. I would not do this as new starters are a lot cheaper than flexplates and trannys. You could pick on up for $30 at Auto zone. That is better than crossing your fingers.
     
  11. driney

    driney 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I'd pull the bolts out between the torque converter and flex plate. Try to rotate the torque converter and see if it binds on anything. I think that if it doesn't move freely it probably isn't seated in the pump. I can't imagine the converter being warped but I suppose anything is possible. If the converter is seated where it should be I would try to determine if the flex plate is bent. Maybe turn the engine manually and see if the flexplate changes in its relationship to the back of the block. Is it possible it did not seat fully on the end of the crank? Just throwing some ideas out there. I've never had any trouble pushing the converter up to the flex plate and having it touch evenly. Maybe it was just a matter of tightening the bolts unevenly, should be obvious if you loosen the bolts and the flex plate stays straight with the torque converter.
     

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