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starter problems please help!!

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BUDDY, May 20, 2001.

  1. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    OK fellas, I can't figure this one out.

    I recently got my blazer back from the shop, (broken distributor bolt, don't ask), and when I went to pick it up, it cranked right over, no big deal. So I drove it home and parked it for a few days, because it's not inspected and I need to do some stuff to it, anyways, I went back out to start it about 3 days after I picked it up and nothing. No click, no sputter, no nothing.

    So I figure I must have left on the headlights on or something, try to jump it and still nothing.

    So, I try to use my fancy-shmacny PW "Hot-Shot Plus" bump over starter relay, still nothing.

    I have never had any issues with any of these things before.

    So finally I try to short across the starter solenoid and jump it started like that, and it sounds like the drive gear is just spinning and not engaging the flywheel.

    I have a Tilton high torque mini-starter. Well, I had recently rebuilt this starter and I just thought instead of messing with it again I'd just get an Autozone special, get my truck running and fix the "good" starter later. So I put the new one on and it does the same damned thing.

    This is where you guys come in. I'm wondering if there is something else wrong with the wiring or my hook-up.

    350 engine, th350 tranny, I have an optima red-top battery, that's currently dead and in it's place temporarily is the NAPA cheapo special.

    I'm wondering if there might be a bad ground or something that I haven't thought of.

    What's weird to me though is that the key switch or the relay switch, both aren't working.

    I'm just about to pull out my hair, and I'm hoping somebody can help me out.

    Thanks, sorry so long,

    Buddy

    72 K-5, 33x12.5's, 350/350/205,12-bR,d44F soon to be 39.5'x15.5s, EFI502/nv4500/doubler205, d60F, d70R. Stay tuned.


    72 K-5, 33x12.5's, 350/350/205,12-bR,d44F soon to be 39.5'x15.5s, EFI502/nv4500/doubler205, d60F, d70R. Stay tuned.
     
  2. Roostr84

    Roostr84 1/2 ton status

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    Well I can't say i have any good solution for you, my best recommendation would be to break out a multimeter and just go from point to point in the system. Make sure all the connections are tight too. But you probably already thought of all this. Just figured I'd throw it in. Sounds like switch or rela to me as well if the starter isnt engaging at all.

    Chris =)
    http:// www.roostr84.coloradok5.com
     
  3. 72GMCJIMMY

    72GMCJIMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Get a test light. Ground it, turn your key to the on position and check the positive side of the coil, you should have power. Have some one turn the key to the start position and hold it there. Check the s terminal on the starter(Small connection closest to the block) You should have power. If you don't have power. Check to see if you are getting power to the key switch with test light. You may also want to check your neutral safety switch, if you have an auto. (on steering column under dash). This should narrow it down.
     
  4. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    Your problem is strange because you mentioned that you got "nothing" with the key and relay but you got "spinning" when you shorted the solenoid..but no pinion engagement. Sounds like two problems.
    When the s terminal on the starter gets 12 v , it is supposed to extend the pinion into the flexplate/flywheel gear even if there is no + battery wire connected to the main lug on the starter. This is the method many use to check pinion engagement for shimming the starter. If it is not extending when you connect good 12v there, the starter is bad.
    It does sounds like it could be a battery cable problem (either pos, neg or both). Remember you can have voltage but not enough current to drive the starter. I've been bitten by this more than once. I'd replace the cables anyway, if they are old.
    Once you get the pinion to engage locally with 12v on the s terminal, if it still doesn't work remotely, check for a fusible link , burned wire , or bad trans position switch on steering column. While you are troubleshooting, I'd jumper the position switch connector with the two purple wires under the dash . And, if someone worked on the truck, I'd start looking where they worked. Such as near the distributor bolt that was repaired. Maybe they hit the harness with the drill. You have the original yellow starter R terminal wire that connected to the starter on one end, but is spliced into the yellow coil wire . Could it be possible that this starter wire (that you may not be using with your Tilton) was somehow shorted to ground ? Just thinking. Sorry for the length.
    Good luck. JT
     
  5. CraigG

    CraigG Registered Member

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    Just had that problem with my starter ( exact same symptoms), on my first trail run with my 72. Luckily, someone in my group is a Chevy guru. He took a hammer and started banging on the side of the starter, while I cranked, and it worked.

    He said the problem is that I got some mud or dust in the solenoid (sp?), and the little "piston" in there gets stuck. He said the best thing to do is take your starter to a Marine/boat shop and tell them to seal it up for a marine motor.

    Now I don't know if this is all technically correct, but it works now :-)

    Craig G
     

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