Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Starter Problems

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by A&P, Jan 11, 2003.

  1. A&P

    A&P Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2001
    Posts:
    88
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio, Texas
    I've got a 77' SBC400 block and I've had nothing but problems with starters on it. In the past it turned out that the problem was the mount bolts that I was using were not the factory ones and because of this, they were too skinny and weren't keeping the starter from torqueing when I'd try to start the truck. The last starter I had got chewed up due to this so I put another one on. When I shimmed it, I had to use 2 really thick shims to get the mesh I needed and the outer bolt didn't seem to grab enough threads. Now the block is stripped on the outer hole. What to do, what to do??? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Oh, also, the very corner of the block where the outer hole threads start had broken off before I bought the truck. Thanks for any Ideas.
    -Ben /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  2. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Posts:
    179
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Central-Cal
    Tap and dye kit w/ a new set of starter bolts...
     
  3. agrezy1

    agrezy1 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2002
    Posts:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    yucca valley,ca
    i feel for you brother i hate chevy starters heres what i have done take it for what its worth,first problem chevy starters from autozone,checker,etc.have a aluminum nose cone and they suck they were always breaking on me and messing with those shims sucks and when a bolt hole gets damaged your double f+&*ed gm never made a starter with cast iron nose cone except some early vettes but they wont work on late model and if you look at your block theres an extra mounting hole for the starter straight across from the outside hole but its not used the cast iron nose cone uses those two holes and not the one inside one you are now using mt starter and alt guy i use says the outside hole is used for alignment of the starter and the inside bolt is used to hold in place this cured my problem except my outside bolt where the block is was broken off had to run long bolt up through the block up higher drilled it and put a pin in it to hold from falling out then the other bolt i just bought a new one cranked it down six months later still no problems its not perfect but no shims and no more grinding and best of all no more weeeeeeeeawwwwwwwwww at the gas station,also you have to run the bracket from back of starter to block to stop the twisting. if you need other info just let me know /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  4. A&P

    A&P Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2001
    Posts:
    88
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio, Texas
    can you possibly send me a picture of the bracket from the block to the starter? If I could see it, I might be able to fab one up to eliminate the problem. if you could that would be great. Thanks for all the help yall.
    -ben
     

Share This Page