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Starting project up again in June.. need help...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by RootBreaker, Apr 30, 2003.

  1. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Williamstown, NJ USA
    Well i move in June to a new house with a 2 car garage... yes the truck will fit.. I am putting the rolling chassis in... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif .....

    I also have saved up $1050 so far.. and thinking about selling my rc car.. hopefully get $400 for it ( have $1400 into it )..... .21 t-maxx

    anyhow i need to know what would you do first....
    my wife says get tires ( mine are beat and starting to dry rott )... nj is allowing 38's.. I was going to fight them to run 40's since they are wider but i dont know.....
    this is what the truck needs....




    A. complete exhaust system

    B. lower truck ( 8" leafs front and remove factory block in rear )

    C. d60 front with locker ( or add locker to d44 since only going with 38's )

    D. xover steering ( on d44 or d60 )

    E. Radiator ( 4 core is holier than swiss cheese )

    F. Dual tanks dont work ( wiring is out and guage stopped working )

    G. Tires

    H. Winch bumper ( $800!!!! )

    I. shackle flip

    J. 2 doors ( wife wants a purdy paint job )



    I know i will think of more.....


    but curious what yall think... I am listing some things below too......

    A. Exhaust
    I know i can get headers and exhaust for about $350 complete true duals

    B. Lower truck
    For the truck to pass in NJ it needs to be 33" to bottom of door. Front sits higher than the rear anyway so if i take the front 12" leafs out and put 8" in and remove rear block then i should have door down to 33" or lower

    C. D60 ==> touchy i know...
    Everyone will say d60 all the way... but if i go with a 38" tire d44's will hold up.... so i could throw a locker in.. else buy a d60 with 4.56's and get a locker.....

    D. x-over steering
    my steering is a mess.. 20 feet to turn.. and that is because the s-bar drag isnt set correctly it pivots and allows play.... so once truck is lowered with 8" leafs i think i can go back to a straight bar and have steering fixed.. but xover would be nice.....

    F. Dual tanks.....
    one day driving with 2 full tanks back in 1996 i noticed the guage freak out when i got to 1/2 and burry past F... i switched tanks and the other tank read F.. so i used that tank and when it got to 3/4 it freaked out and went past F... i used one as a spare....kept gas in it.. guestamated my mileage and drove it for a while.. and switched when i needed to.... Should i just goto a junk yard and buy 2 tanks and the wiring out of a truck?

    G. Tires... very picky....
    This is the biggie... since i have to get my truck down to 33" to the bottom of the door....NJ is allowing 38's max.... well guess what.... they dont care what the sidewalls say... my 40" hawgs measure 37" so they will pass but the dryrott may fail them... once i pass they will put 17x40x16.5 hawgs on my paperwork... then i can buy new tires
    I also wanna fight them on this because I told them I want a wider tire than a 38" has... he said get 39.5 boggers as they are 38.5 and they will overlook the .5... well interco website says 39.5 boggers are 39.5 and denman says 40" hawgs are 39" so I wanna argue to them that the hawgs will be .5 less than what they are allowing on boggers!!!!!!!!!!!!

    well i will leave that to start with.....
    Tires and if i go with D60 will give me lift so I have to plan correctly to get door down to 33" !!!!!!!!!!

    I am going to start pricing stuff and maybe even order some stuff.....
    /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    E-town baby!
    [ QUOTE ]
    but if i go with a 38" tire d44's will hold up.... so i could throw a locker in.. else buy a d60 with 4.56's and get a locker.....

    [/ QUOTE ]

    LOL, the D44 with a locker is good til a 35" tire, 36" if you leave it open. At 38" you will break it, prolly often. If you wheel it then go D60, not because it's "the popular thing to do" but because it'll save you money even in the short term.

    If all you can effectively run is 38's then drop it down to 6" of lift...I run 40's on 5" of total lift and it works really well.

    Rene
     
  3. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    [ QUOTE ]
    I know i will think of more.....

    but curious what yall think... I am listing some things below too......


    [/ QUOTE ]

    first thing... good luck getting all this stuff done for $1400... unless you are going to do ALL the work yourself, work at a parts store, or have LOTS of friends that will give you hella good discounts. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    [ QUOTE ]

    A. Exhaust
    I know i can get headers and exhaust for about $350 complete true duals


    [/ QUOTE ]

    It's just my opinion, but I am generally of the opinion that you should buy the best headers you can afford... find a couple of cats (if u need em) and muffs as cheap as you can and set everything up yourself. Cats/headers and the tubing in between can be cheap and expendable, the stuff isnt going to last forever so I wouldnt sink a lot of $ into it, especially if you are going to wheel the rig and it might get bashed by a rock anyway. Headers are a different story, a NICE set of headers can last a looooong time so its worth it to invest in them.

    [ QUOTE ]
    B. Lower truck
    For the truck to pass in NJ it needs to be 33" to bottom of door. Front sits higher than the rear anyway so if i take the front 12" leafs out and put 8" in and remove rear block then i should have door down to 33" or lower

    [/ QUOTE ]

    if running 38s is the goal, I'd take her down to 6" of suspension lift and trim the fenders. Cheaper, flexier, and you'll be able to get ur doors closer to the 33" ya gotta have in the Garden State.

    [ QUOTE ]
    C. D60 ==> touchy i know...
    Everyone will say d60 all the way... but if i go with a 38" tire d44's will hold up.... so i could throw a locker in.. else buy a d60 with 4.56's and get a locker.....

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I guess it depends what kinda wheelin you do... d44+38s+heavy truck+rocks = axle carnage. IMO, installing the D60 is the best mod I have ever done to my rig. Its hard to argue than any other mod will make your rig more offroad capable than beefier axles.

    [ QUOTE ]
    D. x-over steering my steering is a mess

    x-over would be best. Beefy steering arms can be found for under $90, Sky's is especially nice'n'cheap. Other CK5'ers can make ya tierods and drag links. You oughta be able to set up a system pretty cheap. I run a rockstomper kit myself, works great, but things could be done more cost effectively.

    [ QUOTE ]
    G. Tires... very picky....
    This is the biggie... since i have to get my truck down to 33" to the bottom of the door....NJ is allowing 38's max.... well guess what.... they dont care what the sidewalls say... my 40" hawgs measure 37" so they will pass but the dryrott may fail them... once i pass they will put 17x40x16.5 hawgs on my paperwork... then i can buy new tires
    I also wanna fight them on this because I told them I want a wider tire than a 38" has... he said get 39.5 boggers as they are 38.5 and they will overlook the .5... well interco website says 39.5 boggers are 39.5 and denman says 40" hawgs are 39" so I wanna argue to them that the hawgs will be .5 less than what they are allowing on boggers!!!!!!!!!!!!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    fighting with bereaucrats rarely gains you much ground in this kind of thing... when it comes right down to it, they have the law on their side... piss them off too much and you might find them failing your 38.0001" tall tires as "to tall". Considering you are leaning towards running a half ton front axle anyway, I'd stick with tires that were 38" at the absolute max. Boggers and other phaty tires would NOT be a good idea as they are pretty heavy for their height.

    [ QUOTE ]
    Tires and if i go with D60 will give me lift so I have to plan correctly to get door down to 33" !!!!!!!!!!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    yeah that 33" door req shouldnt be tooo hard to get around... just looking at the TSF pic of my rig on 39.5s, my door bottoms are prolly around 35"... I have 5" of susp lift, 1" of body lift. I think the smartest thing for you to do would be to run 1 ton axles, a LOW lift (4"?), with 38.5s and some fender trimming. Thats just my opinion...

    j
     
  4. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    thanks for the reply... very informative...

    I dont expect to get all of this stuff done on $1400... that was just a big part of my list... I have $1050 now and hope to add $400 to it.... so the $1400 was more for tires... the biggie was should i go with 40's and try and get nj to pass them by argueing... but no i will get 38's as they wont complain about that.... so it is cheaper than the 40's which will leave a few $$$ free....

    I am lookin at dropping in about $5k-$7k hopefully in 6-9 months ( goose egg coming ) and my wife wants it done and done correctly..

    I will go with 38's, take rear stock blocks off and replace the front leafs with 8"ers and I should be at a legal height... but all the other stuff needs to be addressed as my wife said... do it and do it right..... well that isnt something you tell a guy dying to put locked d60 up front, locker in rear, rear disks...etc....
     

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