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stearing box leak!?!?!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by stimpy, Nov 19, 2000.

  1. stimpy

    stimpy Registered Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2000
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    Location:
    Lake Tahoe, CA
    Hey Guys,
    My stearing box has a leak. I think the seals are goiong bad. Every day there is a little puddle under Ol' Buck. The question is, would it be easier to replace the seals or replace the whole box. I have a '79 chevy pickup which right now is mothballed and the boxes are the same. Any help would be great thanks all.

    Todd Miller


    love my blazer, and 43 carryall
     
  2. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Hesperia, Ca 92345
    I got a rebuilt unit for about $100 for Pep Boys. Or you can get a rebuild kit and do it yourself. After doing one, I decided that $100 for a rebuild was a better value for my time. The rebuild isn't hard, just take your time and watch out for those little steel balls inside the box. Putting it together can be a bit tricky, so make sure your mechanical abbility is a little above average. Or you can also just change the outside seals, but I believe as long as it is out, you might as well do it right the first time. Good luck!

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
    <font color=red>Not FROM the people</font color=red>
     
  3. baldbandit

    baldbandit 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Marshall TX
    I bought a rebuild kit from ABC auto part store and done mine myself. All I did was fix the leaks. It was leaking below the rag joint. I left it in the truck and pulled the column. I then removed the uper parts and replaced the seals around the main shaft and replaced the o ring around the large nut that unthreads off of the shaft. Kind of hard to explain, but maybe I helped some. That's all I replaced and it fixed my leak.

    baldbandit
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Atlanta
    The seals are about $12 The 2 seals on the arm are a peice of cake and best way to do them is on the truck because you can give it full left crank and it blow them out once the clip is out....just have your hand on the key and a bucket ready. Leave the arm on the box but disconect the drag link. There are 2 seals and a shim. Leaving the arm on will keep them from flying so you can see the order. Helps to be nose down so the flid doesn't run down the spring.
    The seal on the other shaft is a bit more difficult but can be done without taking the box apart. Pull the box off once you blow the other seals out. take a drill and drill 2 holes in the seal 180degs from each other. BE VERY CAREFULL not to knick the shaft or the box. take a awl or coterpin tool and pry it out. Installing them is just like any other seal. Drive them in even.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     

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