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Steering Arm Removal?????

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by magnum4x4, Apr 22, 2004.

  1. magnum4x4

    magnum4x4 Registered Member

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    What is the easiest way to remove a steering arm from a dana 44. It has the tapered bushings, I can't seem to get to free up. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. BurbLover

    BurbLover 1/2 ton status

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    I've been told that if you hit a certain sweet spot, it pops right off. I, unfortunately, have never found said sweet spot.

    I'm sure someone can elaborate on this. I know it was previously covered, but I couldn't find the post.
     
  3. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Get a BFH and hit it a bunch of times in the sweet spot...right at the end of the stamped numbers /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    If your sweet spots doesn't work just hit it a lot more. Use lots of WD40 too. And repeat.
     
  5. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I always hit straight down on them a couple inches forward of where the draglink hooks up. Be sure the D44 is on something solid, otherwise the force of the hammer is wasted moving the axle. I usually set the brake backing plate on a concrete block and pound away, usually no more than a dozen hits. I've found it easier to remove stock arms than the raised arms.
     
  6. seanmp

    seanmp Registered Member

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    I did mine by removing the rotor and dust sheild for swinging room. Trust me it was well worth the time. Heat the S#$@ out of the arm and use motor oil on the tapered sleeves. Keep the nuts on the end of the studs just in case, and swing. With the rotor out of the way you can hit the arm a lot better. Took 3 or 4 swings on mine, after several days of trying with the rotor on using the same method. Good luck
     
  7. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    I took mine off yesterday. The axle was off the truck - doing an axle swap. I unbolted the steering arm and proceeded to hit it several times with a BFH on the front, side, and bottom. Then I flipped the axle over, so the arm was on the bottom and gave the arm a few good whacks. I flipped the axle back to the normal side and the tapered cones were 1/4" above the arm. They threaded off and the arm came right off. 5 minutes max time!!!
    /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Once you get the tapered cone washers to unseat you can take a screwdriver and use a hammer to tap it in the gap of the washer. This will force the washer to open up and they usually come off on the tip of the screwdriver.

    For the arm, just like stated above. A BFH and some testicular fortitude will cures most problems including this one.

    To get more swing room without removing the dust shield you can put the truck on stands, remove the drivers tire, and the turn the steering full lock to the left.

    Harley
     
  9. magnum4x4

    magnum4x4 Registered Member

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    Thanks everyone, the Sweet Spot Method worked after a 1/2 hours worth of pounding. Now the Rough Country steering arm won't go on. Gonna have to do some grinding on the arm! /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif
     
  10. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I have found the rough country arms need a little grinding to clear the ball joint's shoulder. Just remove the cast mold mark and it should be fine, or go x-over and don't worry about it anymore.
     
  11. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    My lift is a Rough Country also and my arm didn't fit either, the holes were not drilled right. I had to use an extra that I had.
     
  12. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    PB Blaster, Torch, BFH, took two swings with the hammer and it loosened up couldn't believe it. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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