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Steering Arm Removal

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by re42674, Aug 30, 2004.

  1. re42674

    re42674 Registered Member

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    I'm trying to install a 4" lift on my 87 K5 and I can't get the steering arm to break away from the axle. I don't have a torch and I've tried everything from using gear pullers to a 2 lb sledge. Does anyone have any ideas on how to do this without having to find a cutting torch?
     
  2. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Ive never done it but everybody says to hit the arm with a sledge where the numbers are and it should come off..
     
  3. darkshadow

    darkshadow 1 ton status

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    yeah the number thing is what i hurd too, try a propan torch to heat it up if it needs a little help /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    If you used a 2lb sledge and it didn't work then get a 3lb sledge.

    It can take quite a bit of work to get them to come off. You have to beat the piss out of them sometimes. Hit it in both directions (upward and downward) and in different spots. If that doesn't work hit it some more. There a pain sometimes

    Harley
     
  5. re42674

    re42674 Registered Member

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    Yeah, we're still beating the hell out of it as I speak. I was just hoping that there was some other way because the sledge isn't doing too much. Actually, the sledge, which was purchased today just broke. This steering arm is a beast. Must have help. Thanks
     
  6. jwduke

    jwduke 1/2 ton status

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    I did the "hit it on the numbers" thing, & it does work! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  7. re42674

    re42674 Registered Member

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    Where are the numbers actually at? Are they on the top or bottom, and are they out on the extended part of the arm (away from the bolts)?
     
  8. cochino12

    cochino12 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Where are the numbers actually at? Are they on the top or bottom, and are they out on the extended part of the arm (away from the bolts)?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yep thats where they are, on top away from the bolts. Spray a can of pb blaster on it and then put the bolts back about on half way. Then drive around the block, then take that sledge and smack the $hit out of the numbers. Mine popped off after about 5 smacks, good luck
     
  9. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    Hit the arm on the farthest point from where it connects to the knuckle, right next to where the drag link connects. The reason you hit there is it gives you the biggest lever arm. You can also try putting a pair of vise grips around the conical washers and give the end of the vise grips a whack with a hammer in a counterclockwise direction. Just make sure you clean up the heads of the washers with a file before you reuse them.
     
  10. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Is it off yet?

    How do you have the vehicle supported?

    I have taken many of these off. I've never owned a can of PB Blaster, let alone used it. I've gotten all of mine off with under a dozen good hits using nothing more that a decent size ball peen hammer.
     
  11. 1badv10

    1badv10 Registered Member

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    i had the same situation on my truck. wound up taking the whole diff to my friends garage and putting a little heat on it while pulling on those cone washers and they came out like nothing.. after hrs of beating the snot outa that thing whith all kinds of BFH's /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif... but the trick is to pull those washers then it just falls apart...hope this helps /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  12. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I've always hit the arm with a hammer and removed the cones by hand /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    I wouldn't use heat unless you enjoy replacing ball joint boots.
     
  13. 1badv10

    1badv10 Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I've always hit the arm with a hammer and removed the cones by hand /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    I wouldn't use heat unless you enjoy replacing ball joint boots.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    good point there those rubber boots do like to flare up huh /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif i was debating replacing my ball-joints and that made up my mind for me.. my biggest problem was it was my first time doing it and had no idea what those washers were.(instructions that came with lift didnt show or explain) they just looked like lock washers and i figured they were just stuck to the studs /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif. but now that i know how they work i think i could do it alot quicker.. hope you'all got it apart.. i know your fustration but believe me the kit is worth it /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  14. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    I had to step up to a large sledge hammer, rather my small hand sledge hammer to get mine off - it was very difficult compared to the last one I removed. Must have had something to do with the truck being a rusted mess of junk! Ended up bending two of the studs so get to replace them too.
     
  15. re42674

    re42674 Registered Member

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    Thanks for the help. I got it off by using a air chisel/hammer to get the cone washers to start turning and then I used a pair of vice grips to turn them till they came off. Then I hammered the arm off. The reason I was having so much trouble is because I couldnt knock the arm up and off or get the cone washers to turn. Once I got them to turn, everything else came easy.
     

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