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@$!#!$%!%!! Steering Arm!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Zebra, Jan 19, 2003.

  1. Zebra

    Zebra Registered Member

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    I think my steering arm is getting the best of me. After installing a 6" lift, I originally installed a used, dropped draglink, but found out the ends are sloppy so I set about to install the raised arm I also have and put back on the stock draglink. So far no luck with the arm. I have done the penetrating and BFH thing, but it has not budged. I originally put on the oil yesterday, but I suppose I may have to apply more and wait. Maybe heat wil be next. Arrrggg!
    Anyone want to swap a raised arm for a good dropped draglink? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    BFH worked perfect for me when i did mine /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    When you take the nuts off youll notice that the arm is real thin around the furthest back stud. Leave the nuts on to protect the threads (very loose obviously) and smack the arm at the thinnest point in the back. When the cone starts to raise up smack the next one forward. Keep going up to the 3rd then repeat until the cones are all loose.

    I havent had to use this yet but was told it by a front end guy that has never had trouble removing arms. I told it to a bud, who out of curiousity went out and did it to an extra axle he had out back and said the cones popped right out. No heat or nut buster on them either. He got the arm off dry.
     
  4. Zebra

    Zebra Registered Member

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    I'll have to look at that approach. I imagine that also involves removing the caliper for clearance. If I wasn't so cheap I would leave it on and change the joints on the dropped drag link. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  5. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I think its at least easier to remove it all. Im not sure if its ness. or not. Memory isnt working to swooft tonite, and the Blazer is at the shop so I cant go check it out.
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I used a BFH and a lot of swear words on mine. If you get real close and curse as load as you can, it will help some. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  7. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but according to my Haynes manual your method is exactly the opposite.
    Here's the quote directly from it:
    "Exercise CAUTION when removing the cones from the arm. They are designed from the factory to release with a force inversely proportional to the loudness and severity of the vulgarity level upon removal.
     
  8. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Maybe that was the trouble, I should have wispered my feelings and it would have just popped off! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  9. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Probably, but just remember, "pillow talk" only works if you're sincere!!

    smack
     
  10. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I used the BFH approach as well. I removed the tie rod to get me better clearance and smacked the end of the arm with a 4lb mini-sledge. Beat it up a few, then down a few. After some time it popped off.

    No matter what approach, I would definitely take a few things off to give better access to it. No need to try and cram something in there to get at it when you really need swingin' space!
     
  11. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Or drunk. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    Get one of those little butane heaters, trust me. I took one off without the heat & it took me three days of hitting it with a BFH & using the air hammer to try to loosen it up.

    The next one I tried, I got the heater & it was off in 10 minutes. Just heat it up & whack it.
     
  13. Zebra

    Zebra Registered Member

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    Thanks for all the help guys. pureinsanity's method worked like a charm. After removing the caliper for clearance and giving a few good whacks in the thin area, the first cone started to come out and all was downhill after that...
    Unfortunately, my stock, straight draglink is a tad too lonk even with the ends threaded all the way in, so I may have to shorten it up by removing some of the excess threads.
     
  14. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Glad it worked for you. Well thats 2 for 2. Anyone else try it yet?

    Did you do it dry or had you sprayed them down?
     
  15. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I just did a steering arm swap. If the drag link ends are meeting in the adjusting sleeve, then you'll probably only be able to turn right. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif To re-center the steering box after the swap you should need to back off the DRE's so that the steering wheel backs off one complete turn. That will give you the ability to turn both left and right. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  16. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    I have a junkyard axle from an 84 that has the original arm, I'll give it a shot this afternoon....its a little easier since the axle is out of the truck... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  17. Living Large

    Living Large Registered Member

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    Just finished installing a lift on my 91 sub on Sat. Here is what worked best for me. Use your floor jack and apply pressure from under the arm. A piece of square tubbing works well, put the tubbing on the floor jack in the vertical position. When the arm is under pressure, hit the arm from the side, this well pop the tappered cones up. Use a screwdriver and turn(loosen) the cones. They well screw right out of the arm. It is a old forlft trick-many old forklifts use the same method for atttaching the drive hubs.
     
  18. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    It worked like a charm!!! No lube no nothing....it's supposed to be hard to get the steering arm off? Start to finish around 5 min...4 lb sledge was the weapon of choice /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  19. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    everyone has thier theory, but if you want to do it right go find a Snap-On truck and get yourself a cone washer puller . Basically a set of pliers that clamps around the washer and the arm of the pliers goes in the split on the washer and spreads it open, then you just pull them out! I about crapped my pants when my friend brought these over to help lift another friends blazer a few weeks ago, took a whopping 5-6 seconds /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif to remove the steering arm (we dared him to beat our previous record of 3 minutes using the BFH method. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)
     
  20. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    since i advise using new conical washer insert thingys....
    i used my air hammer to get them out. worked great, but i needed new washers. thats how they come out, is by now being able to stay in from being mutilated.
    grant
     

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