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Steering box seal

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jarheadk5, Nov 25, 2001.

  1. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    More leaks...

    My steering box is leaking from the input seal, where the rag joint is. Not a fast leak, but it's there. How hard is this to change? Or should I just start planning on a new box?

    Ken

    <font color=blue>America--Land of the Free, Home of the Brave<font color=black>
     
  2. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    It sucks taking that thing apart! There is a HUGE snapring holding the back on, once that is removed, and the front snap ring is removed...you take the adjusting screw plate off, and remove the gear shaft. I was going to rebuild mine but gave up shalf way through...then I demolished it trying to put it back together. I am glad I went to the idiots counter at advanced autoparts because he didnt look at the core, the only good part was the case.
     
  3. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

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    Its not really that bad of a job.Once the box is off of the truck and somewhat drained,youll notice an internal snapring just outside of where the seal(the leaking one)is.Remove this snapring,then the outer ring is actually a lock nut(the part that has notches in it all the way around).The lock nut comes off counterclockwise like any other nut.I had to use a punch and a hammer to loosen mine.After this locknut is removed you will see two holes in the top plate,make a mark on the plate and the housing to ensure you get it back on the same way.
    Now this top plate screwss out counterclockwise also,Once again I didnt have a spanner wrench so I used a hammer and a punch to loosen this.Now while you turn the top plate be sure that the actual input shaft doesnt turn with it,If this turns with the top plate youll end up removing the worm gear and a bunch of ball bearings and if this happens UH-UO!After the topplate comes out you just change the seal as with any other seal.If you have any problems e-mail me and Ill be glad to help!
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Take the box off. Take the rag joint off. Take the c-clip off. Drill 2 holes 180 of each other into the seal. Drill with the box on it's side so the shavings will fall away from the box. BE VERY CAREFULL not to nick the shaft or the housing. Take a awl or a cotter pin extractor and pry it out. Take some brake cleaner hold the box with input shaft down and flush it out to be sure no shavings are in it (power steering doesn't have a filter and shavings can wipe out the box or the pump). put some axle grease on the shaft and inside lip of the new seal so it doesn't run dry before the fluid can get to it.
    Tap seal in with a deep well socket and reinstall the c-clip.
    Autozone has the seals. They may need the numbers off the side of the box.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
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    Grim-Reaper
     
  5. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks all, I'll probably try this in the spring when (hopefully) the beast comes off the road for some badly-needed rework.

    Ken

    <font color=blue>America--Land of the Free, Home of the Brave<font color=black>
     

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