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Steering Brace/cracked Frame

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sf_wood, May 28, 2005.

  1. sf_wood

    sf_wood Registered Member

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    So i'm installing my ord crossover steering. I got all the parts needed, plus bolt in brace.here's my problem, someone tried to fix frame before and butchered everything up. They welded some crappy plates and 1"-1.25" spacers in . I tried to get it out but it's there to stay. I had to use 4.5" bolts to get it on the box side then there was a 1/2" gap between theforward mount and frame.So what am i supposed to do? Is this ok or not? :confused:
     
  2. kotton

    kotton Registered Member

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    im in the same boat as you, hopefully someone will chime in and has an answer.
     
  3. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    i would go to the junk yard and have them cut off the frame rail section and try to graft the box section in to yours. then put the box brake on and keep a eye on it. just my opinon.
     
  4. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    Hows the frame now? If its cracked, then surgery is needed to repair it and you can cut whatever is in the way. From the sounds of things, the brace just won;'t fit. In that case, the best answer (easiest), would be to modify the brace to fit what you have. If you don't have the necessary tools, then you'll have to decide if you want to pay someone else to do the work, or go as is. Others may chime in, but (my opinion) if the frame has been repaired once, then I would run the brace to help prevent another crack.
     
  5. sf_wood

    sf_wood Registered Member

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    The frame seems ok. There is already the weld in repair plates, hopefully they v-notched and welded any cracks. I just don't like the way the repair was done . I would of done it differently, i don't like how they welded plates and spacers to the inside or channel side of frame. ORD steering brace bolted in but needed longer bolts and had 1/2" gap between forward frame mount. Should i just clamp it to frame and drill knew hole or use some washers to fill the gap with knew hole. I'm about 1" off the pilot hole on front frame rail.
     
  6. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    You will definitely want to close that gap. Leaving it open will cause extra stress aroiund that ponit. Washers may help distryibute the load, but chose something thick and substantial.
     
  7. sf_wood

    sf_wood Registered Member

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    So i said screw it and added 2(1/4") pieces of plate steel and went and bought a longer bolt.I hope it don't give me any problems. Well i'm building a 1977 k10 350/465/205/d44/14b ff. I've bought all of my parts from ORD.Pretty much everything except their doubler,it's coming i just can't afford it right now.Oh, whats the best size tire for 6" lift and 4.56 gears?,35-36. When i get a digital camera i'll try to post some pics.
     
  8. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    35 or 36 inch tires should work great with that combo. You could go with less lift, 4 inches, and add a little fender trimming to fit those tires too. You will need a new driveshaft with 6 inches of lift, but could probably get by for a while with a stock shaft on 4-5 inches of lift.

    I have about 5 1/4 inches of lift in back and ran the stock driveshaft with a conversion u-joint (for the 14 BFF) for the last year. After talking to Jesse at HAD, he convinced me that the stock driveshaft would continue to eat u-joints. I have developed a small vibration when coasting due to the angles of the u-joints - its very annoying. So, I'm waiting for a new shaft from Jesse that should cure all my woes (CV, and a u-bolt yoke for the 14BFF).

    Lets see some pics as you put it together!
     

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