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steering prob

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by nickstegeman, Jun 7, 2003.

  1. nickstegeman

    nickstegeman Registered Member

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    I finally got the 6 inch lift on my 85. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I replace the steering arm with a new raised one. There has always been some play in the steering wheel, which I had always chalked up to the 33 inch tires. Know there is a LOT of play. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I am planning on putting on a new drag link and new bushings. Will this solve my problem?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Also, since the lift was put on, she takes very wide right turns. I am unable to turn the wheel as far to the right as I used to, and there is a lot more room on the left turn. Left turns are GREAT, but it sucks planning a trip with only left turns. What do I do?!? What do I do!?! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    ns /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif

    P.S. I am going to replace the stock stabilizer with a duel system. hopefully that will help as well.
     
  2. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    I would get a whole new drag link and sleave, they are fairly cheap. You need to recenter the steering arm.

    Point the tires straight, disconnect the drag link, then center the steering wheel. adjust the new drag link to just fit, then either align it or have it done....
     
  3. awagliar

    awagliar Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Left turns are GREAT, but it sucks planning a trip with only left turns. What do I do?!?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    NASTruck? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    Sorry, couldn't help myself.

    Seriously, I'd definitely suggest a new drag link.
     
  4. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    THE REASON YOU STEER LEFT ALOT BETTER THAN RIGHT IS BECAUSE EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE A RAISED STEERING ARM, IT DOESNT AUTOMATICALLY CORRECT FOR A 6" LIFT. THEY ARE MORE FOR 4" LIFT BUT WILL STILL WORK WITH 6". YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO ADJUST THE LINK GOING FROM THE STEERING BOX TO THE STEERING ARM. YOU ARE GOING TO WANT TO MAKE THIS LONGER TO ADJUST FOR YOUR PROBLEM. SET YOUR WHEELS PERFECTLY STRAIGHT AND KEEP YOUR IGNITION UNLOCKED, THEN ADJUST THE LINK UNTIL YOUR STEERING WHEEL BECOMES CENTERED. MAKE SURE THAT YOU DONT MAKE THE LINK TOO LONG THAT THERE ARENT ENOUGH THREADS IN THE ADJUSTING SLEEVE. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PROB AND 6" LIFTS IS THE LINK WONT GET LONG ENOUGH WITHOUT BEING DANGEROUS WITH NOT ENOUGH THREADS IN THE SLEEVE, BUT IT WILL MAKE IT ALOT BETTER. FOR THE PLAY IN YOUR STEERING, HAVE SOMEONE GET IN THE TRUCK AND MOVE THE WHEEL BACK AND FORTH WITHOUT ACTUALLY MOVING THE TIRES. JUST MOVE IT WHERE THE PLAY IS. THEN GO LOOK AND MAKE SURE THERE IS NO PLAY IN THE STEERING SHAFT COUPLINGS, CHECK TO SEE THAT THE SHAFT IS TURNING AND LOOK AT YOUR PITMAN ARM, IF THIS IS BARELY MOVING YOU HAVE PLAY IN YOUR GEARBOX. IF THIS IS ALL GOOD, LASTLY CHECK ALL YOUR LINKS AND TIE RODS. ALSO CHECK THE FRAME AROUND THE GEARBOX FOR THE USUALL CRACKING. I'D BE WILLING TO BET YOU HAVE A LOT OF PLAY IN YOUR GEAR BOX. IF THIS IS FOUND, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS:LOOK ON TOP OF GEARBOX AND YOU WILL SEE A BOLT THAT TAKES AN ALLEN KEY, IT ALSO HAS A LOCKNUT ON IT. LOOSEN THE LOCKNUT AND WITH AND ALLEN KEY TURN THE BOLT. I CANT REMEMBER WHICH WAY BUT YOU WILL FIGURE IT OUT QUICKLY WHEN IT DOESNT GET ANY TIGHTER. DONT WRENCH DOWN ON THIS BOLT, ON TURN IT UNTIL THE PLAY IS GONE AND SLIGHT RESISTANCE IS FELT. KEEP TURNING THE SHAFT BACK AND FORTH WITH YOUR HAND AS YOU DO THIS. IT WOULDNT BE A BAD IDEA TO REPLACE ALL YOUR TIE RODS EITHER, BUT IF THEY HAVE NO PLAY ONCE YOU CHECK WITH SOMEONE TURNING THE WHEEL, I WOULD NT WORRY ABOUT THEM UNLESS THEY ARE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND YOU WANT PIECE OF MIND.
     
  5. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    Bigblock, you really need to do something about the caps...every post of yours I have seen is in caps and all I hear in my head is someone yelling in my ear...tone it down bro we can read lowercase...really /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  6. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    Mostly the reason it looks like your yelling is because it is just too much to look at, I tried to read what you wrote and couldn't get past the first couple of lines...And I want to read it....Shhhhhhh.... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    sorry i promise i wont do it anymore /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  8. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'D BE WILLING TO BET YOU HAVE A LOT OF PLAY IN YOUR GEAR BOX. IF THIS IS FOUND, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS:LOOK ON TOP OF GEARBOX AND YOU WILL SEE A BOLT THAT TAKES AN ALLEN KEY, IT ALSO HAS A LOCKNUT ON IT. LOOSEN THE LOCKNUT AND WITH AND ALLEN KEY TURN THE BOLT. I CANT REMEMBER WHICH WAY BUT YOU WILL FIGURE IT OUT QUICKLY WHEN IT DOESNT GET ANY TIGHTER. DONT WRENCH DOWN ON THIS BOLT, ON TURN IT UNTIL THE PLAY IS GONE AND SLIGHT RESISTANCE IS FELT. KEEP TURNING THE SHAFT BACK AND FORTH WITH YOUR HAND AS YOU DO THIS.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    This isn't the proper way to do it. Steering boxes have more play in them away from center than at the center. If the box is centered than there will be alot less slop. If the box is not centered and you tighten up the gear mesh (what you are doing when you tighten down that allen bolt) away from center it will be too tight at center. If you really want to mess with the steering box (after you have got it centered and know that that is where your play is comming form) get a manual and do it right.
     
  9. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    ive read the maual about how to do it and that is pretty much the way listed in the chevy book. except you tighten down the nut until it takes so many inch pounds to turn thw wheel back and forth with it running. which you couldnt get totally correct if you have larger than stock tires.
     

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