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Stick or Mig for body work????

Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by adamforsythe, Mar 12, 2006.

  1. adamforsythe

    adamforsythe 1/2 ton status

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    I will be doing a LOT of body work this summer. Along with repairing frames, etc. Would I be better of going with a Stick or Mig? I know Stick is better for reaping big stuff like frames. But I would think Mig would be a lot better for body.I like Stick a lot more. I am looking at buying this welder.
    http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=98103-000001703-K1170&lpage=none
    Tell me what you guys think.
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    mig is a 1000x's better for bodywork... better have some thin, dainty rod if your gonna arc....

    mig is the standard in most bodyshops... a 110 unit will do you fine for sheetmetal...
     
  3. dogdaysunrise

    dogdaysunrise 1/2 ton status

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    I have that same welder except mine is about a jillion years older. It works awesome for heavy gauge metal. If you want to use it for sheet metal you better practice blowing your nose with a 1ply tissue, because thats pretty much what its like.
     
  4. adamforsythe

    adamforsythe 1/2 ton status

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  5. chopped&bobbed77burb

    chopped&bobbed77burb 1/2 ton status

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    I used my lincoln wp100 with .035 inner sheild wire for my body work but I had turned all the way down and ran alot of "stick out" . I did burn through in a few areas and I came back and went over them after it had cooled down . If I was to do this again I would run a gas set up and .025 wire . stick is just to much for thin sheet metal but it's great for heavier 1/4 metals and up .
     
  6. camiswelding

    camiswelding 1/2 ton status

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    mig...hands down

    use easygrind wire for bodywork ...especailly made for light guage gavli sheetmetal

    and mig is fine for frame work,, use the best quality wire available

    sp135 lincoln for sheetmetal.. thats what ICAR uses

    220v mig in blue or red for frame work...
     
  7. hack500

    hack500 1/2 ton status

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    gas + .023(iirc) wire works well for body work.
     
  8. AZ79K5Project

    AZ79K5Project 1/2 ton status

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    I read welder opinions for a couple of months on every site I could find. Most of the posts say to buy a quality welder the first time.

    I looked at the 110v and 220v machines, Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, Home Depot, Lowes, all over. The 110's are fine if you never intend on doing bigger projects. I never intend on building larger projects, but somehow ALL my projects get bigger.

    I finally went with the Hobart Handler 180 (220V). It will weld the thin and thick stuff. I just got my 220 volt plug inspected today and approved. I put the line in myself. I made a 30 foot extension cord for it as well.

    I picked the Hobart up for $569.00 shipped free to my door from Amazon two weeks ago. They are back to $649.00 today.

    Watch for sales and free shipping. Most of the time, the local stores can't compete or come close to the on-line sales.

    Just my $.02
     
  9. NYDIESELDAVE

    NYDIESELDAVE 1/2 ton status

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    Here is a quick thought. How about using something like FUSOR bonding adhesive or some other metal adhesive instead for the body metal. I do it all the time on a daily basis. Hell, I did it on my truck to put in metal patches where the ant. from the military used to be. It super strong stuff and won't rust. Welding creates heat and also has some corrosion issues.

    As for the thick metal I like stick personally.
     

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