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Sticky caliper?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jimmy1984, Feb 23, 2007.

  1. jimmy1984

    jimmy1984 1/2 ton status

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    well i was driving on the Highway a few days ago and when i got to my destination my front passenger side rim/brake roter were realy hot like scalding hot and on the highway when i would use the brakes the truck would pull to the side. im pretty sure that its a sticky piston/caliper so i took it down to a local shop and they said it would run me $600 to get it fixed they would change out the calipers and the brake line and mayby the roters. i realy want to do it myself and save some money but i dont know if i should just let the shop do it and if i did do it myself i dont know how involed it is. s

    so i was just wondering what your guys opinion is in the situation
    any help is greatly appriceated. Thanks a bunch
     
  2. WhiteBurb

    WhiteBurb 1/2 ton status

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    I just had the same problem, and am pricing out the parts. For the top of the line caliper at Autozone, I'm looking at $55-ish. That includes pads. I'll get the rotor resurfaced for $8. My brake line is fine. So I'm out $63 and about an hour and a half of my life (includes swapping parts and going to and from the parts store).
    You can do it!
     
  3. FOR MUD

    FOR MUD 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    If you are unsure on how to do it, send the extra $20 and buy a good manual. read it and then decide if you can do it or not. Even if you decide to let someone else do the work, find anther shop, because $600 is way to much for a front end brake shop.
    If it was me I would go ahead and change the lines too. It's cheap insurance.
     
  4. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    I had a caliper lock up on mine probably 2 years ago. Went ahead and changed both calipers (they were like 15 bucks a piece, should change both at the same time from what I have heard), new pads, put on 1 new rotor (it was like 20 bucks).

    Also repacked the wheel bearings, the grease got a little toasty. That rotor was GLOWING, looked like I had orange wheels lol.

    Took a little over an hour to do it all and as I recall it was raining when I did it..:doah:
     
  5. jimmy1984

    jimmy1984 1/2 ton status

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    all right well ill see if i can get a manual after that ill just do it myself if i can get all the parts at some store the switching out part should be easy.

    thanks for the help guys.
     
  6. W7NB

    W7NB 1/2 ton status

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    Also, you will need to get the torx wrench or allen head to take the callipers off with, plus a 3/8 inch flare nut wrench. Stuff is cheap and the counter folks will know what I'm talking about. Also remember you will need break fluid (get the big bottle) and tubing or kit to bleed the calipers when you finish. Easy stuff and you will be out $60 to $100 when you finish depending on if you have to replace a rotor.

    Also, don't buy the cheap chineese rotors - the metal in them sucks and you will chew them up in no time - spring for the OEM quality stuff.
     
  7. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    I warn you to stay away from the brake shops. Just brakes and the like. Their 99.99 brake jobs, on average, go over $600.00
    IIWM I would put on a couple of calipers and pads. If the bearings are not full of grease when you take it apart, replace them also. I do not replace or turn rotors unless I have a vibration while braking.
    If you have never messed with brakes before, don't start now. You can create a deadly vehicle, or damage other components if the brakes are not bled correctly.
    Find someone close to you that is familiar with brake work, and watch and help him. Get your feet wet by observing and asking questions a few times before you do it on your own.

    I don't see your total bill going over 150.00, at the most.
     
  8. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Better check this..

    Might want to be sure it IS the caliper at fault,and not the rubber brake hose!--I have replaced many "seized" calipers, and had them lock up 15 minutes later,just like the "siezed" one did!..turned out the old rubber brake hose was restricting the flow of brake fluid back to the master cylinder when you let off the brakes,yet allowed it to flow to the caliper..acts like a one way check valve,and keeps pressure applied to the caliper and pads!..:doah:

    To test the brake hoses,jack the tire up off the ground,and apply the brakes--then try turning the tire by hand--it should spin freely..if it is locked up or difficult to turn,try opening the bleeder screw on that caliper--if the tire now spins freely,its the brake hose that is causing the problem,not the caliper...

    You might need a new caliper anyway,if the bleeder screw wont open or snaps off,like they always do here in the salty northeast..but I see lots more defective brake hoses than calipers lately..:crazy:
     
  9. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    I've seen more brake lines go bad than calipers as well...
     
  10. jimmy1984

    jimmy1984 1/2 ton status

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    thanks again for the info guys i think im gonna shop around for a cheaper place or find someone i know that can do it before i decide on doing it myself.
     

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