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sticky needle in carb-any help?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mico85K5, Apr 23, 2000.

  1. mico85K5

    mico85K5 Registered Member

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    Had my carb rebuilt but something is sticking and making it overflow-then die. Is there an easy fix to lube this "needle" up or something? The truck runs great once this needle problem works itself out (driving for 10-15 minutes warmed up)


    HELP!!!!!!!!!!


    Driving your blazer=FUN!
     
  2. 6.2 man

    6.2 man 1/2 ton status

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    Try squirting some choke cleaner down the vent tube of the carb . Sometimes those neeldes are gummy .
     
  3. SVBlazer

    SVBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Who did the rebuild? If you had a shop do the work, take it back to 'em. The rebuild should have included a cleaning to remove the deposits.
     
  4. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    The float or the needle valve is sticking in the open position allowing the fuel to fill the bowl and overflow, you could try to tap it with a hammer to see if it will stop, otherwise take it off and back to who did it.
    Me I would just take the top off the carb to see if it just came unseated during the journey from shop to the top of the motor.
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    The first thing I think is happening is that the float is hanging when excesivly low fuel in the bowl. The fuel is getting that low because the shop did not reseal the 2 casting plugs in the bottom of the float bowl. Now you can probably live with the bleed down issue but you got to take the top off the carb and get the hanging float problems stopped. It may be that the retaining spring on the needle was put on backwards and is pulling the Needle sideways and it's wedging in it's guide bore. You may have a bad float also. If it was partialy filled with fuel it would not be applyin as much pressure on the needle as it should.


    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  6. Bigd

    Bigd 1/2 ton status

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    If a shop rebuilt it take it back to them.Could be many things.Did they set the float hieght right?If not, it will over flow.You didn't say but did you put a new pump in.IF you did could have to much pressure and the needle can't seat due too much pressure.Best thing too do would be go get some warranty work.
     
  7. mico85K5

    mico85K5 Registered Member

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    Thanks for all of the info, took it back to the shop (where i'll probably not go again!) and hopefully I'll be blazing to my new job on Tuesday!




    Driving your blazer=FUN!
     
  8. mico85K5

    mico85K5 Registered Member

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    COLD START PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I've had the worst thoughts lately-getting rid of my ride!!!

    I am really, really, frustrated. Took my truck back to the same shop (I've put out $350 and still have a truck that doesn't run and a carb that sticks!) for the 4th time because it refuses to start. Cold, the truck will start and run for 10 seconds then die. It will not stay running. The shop has tuned the newly rebuilt carb, adjusted the choke, replaced the ignition coil (after burning it up trying to keep it started), and the truck is still having this cold start problem. If I go and drive the truck later in the day it starts and runs just fine. Just overnight trying to start it cold the next morning sucks-any suggestions short of parting with my K5 will be appreciated!

    Thanks Mick

    Driving your blazer=FUN!
     
  9. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem. Started great when warm but over night it was hell to start. Then it wanted to flood until warmed up(choke setting didn't affect its bad behavior). I rebuilt it and it was better but not right. Throw it away and buy a new one. A new Qjet is around $350. Don't buy a rebuilt one.
     
  10. BillR

    BillR 1/2 ton status

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    I has the same problem when I bought mine. I replaced the OLD Q-jet with a Holley with an electric choke. It starts and runs great now. I think any new carb will cure your problem, though.

    Blazin' in Flagstaff
     

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