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stiff clutch

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by drchan, Mar 20, 2003.

  1. drchan

    drchan Registered Member

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    i recently got a 72 k5 with manual trans. i've noticed that it very hard to push down on the clutch. it shifts fine and goes in to gear well but you will work your leg to death! i'm not familiar with older standards, but is this normal. if not what do you do to make it easier to push down on the clutch. i'm not a complete wimp but i don't want to work-out every time i drive. any ideas would be appreciated. i'm new on the blazer scene so if this question seems simple please forgive me, i'm trying to learn. by the way, i did do a forum search before i asked the question.
     
  2. dysphemism

    dysphemism 1/2 ton status

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    I'm sure someone with more know-how will fill in the details but a hyrdo-assist clutch seems to be what most people do around here to cure that problem. Im not really sure of the specifics.
     
  3. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    The clutch should not be all that heavy. There should be an assist spring under the dash kooked up to the clutch pedal (it assists return when the clutch pedal is about 80% up from the floor and assists release when it's lower than that).

    I have test driven one Jimmy that was originally an automatic that had a horribly stiff clutch pedal. I assume that it was a really hacked-up conversion. I didn't buy that one...

    FWIW, my Blazer has a really light, smooth clutch pedal. I'm using a Centerforce II clutch with the stock mechanical linkage. It is much smoother than the hydraulic clutch in my Fiero.
     
  4. POFF

    POFF 1/2 ton status

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    I replaced all of the Z-bar bushings, welded and re-ground the wear on the rod that connects the pedal to the Z-bar and replaced the Z-bar to clutch fork linkage with a Helm or Heim joint (sp?) and all-thread. My clutch is much smoother and easier to push. Make sure the nut on the frame side ball-stud is tight and in the right place, there should be a small keeper that helps line up the ball-stud. Also, if your motor mounts are bad the Z-bar may not line up correctly.
     
  5. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    All good ideas, but even under the best conditions the Borg & Beck (3 lever style) clutches that were original in these trucks are very hard to operate in comparison to a diaphragm style clutch like is in any later model application. You can swap in a diaphragm clutch if you want to go to the trouble.
     
  6. drchan

    drchan Registered Member

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    gosh dang! you guys know alot. like i said i'm completely "green" when it comes to all this, but you got start somewhere. i'don't believe this was a conversion from an automatic. and i'm not a giant man but i'm no 80 pound weakling either, AND the clutch is HARD to push down on! When you know very little about the mechanics of the clutch, would you go to a t/mission shop and just ask an opinion?? just wondering
     
  7. POFF

    POFF 1/2 ton status

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    You may be able to see if it is a diaphragm or three lever clutch by pulling out the rubber boot around the clutch fork (if it's still there)and looking in with a flashlight and mirror.
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The Borg&Beck doubles as a torture device...chattering, grabby, and will turn the strongest leg to Jello in heavy traffic. I ran one for 5 years in my 81 Jimmy, then finally went with a diaphram clutch when i swapped to the 6.2 diesel. Half the pedal effort, smoother engagement, no chattering...

    I took the time to go through all the mechanical linkage, cleaned it up, greased the pivot points etc etc. It may be a touch heavier than a hydro clutch, but the difference is negligible.

    Rene
     

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