Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Strange brake behaviour

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Hoss, Oct 28, 2001.

  1. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2001
    Posts:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I just bought an 82 K20 Suburban and might be having brake problems, need some help determining what the issue is.

    Most the time, they feel fine. But sometimes, the peddle goes down quite far before activating the brakes. Once the brakes start engaging though, they feel fine, not spungy or anything. And yet sometimes, they are supper touchy. As soon as I touch the peddle, they seem to grab very fast and harder for the given foot pressure.

    Anyone else experienced this? Any ideas? The vacum hose looks to be in good shape. It doesn't feel like air in the lines, at least not like previous experience I've had with air in lines.

    -C
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.theonespot.com/myrides/suburban>1982 K20 Silverado Suburban</a>
     
  2. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2001
    Posts:
    2,589
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Colorado
    Maybe one of the front discs are bleeding way off from adjustment or very worn, that may cause you to have so much pedal travel. Worn brakes will also cause them to grab as well.

    Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=) [​IMG]

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chevyracing>http://community.webshots.com/user/chevyracing</a>
     
  3. crahm

    crahm Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2001
    Posts:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Dallas, Texas
    Crappy fluid with moisture in the lines will cause this problem. I've tried to flush my own system when this happens but the shops seem to have some kind of power pressure flush mechanism that works a lot better. Good luck.
     
  4. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2001
    Posts:
    3,271
    Likes Received:
    134
    Location:
    Clovis CA
    Have you tried adjusting the rear brakes?That can make a big difference sometimes.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  5. shawnboy

    shawnboy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2001
    Posts:
    468
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada, eh.
    Might be time to rebuild your master cylinder.
    Shawnboy.

    If you are having too much fun it's probably illegal.
     
  6. californiak5

    californiak5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2000
    Posts:
    820
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Oceanside, Ca. 92056
    I was having almost the same problems with my truck. It turned out to be the Master Cylinder. Once I replaced it, the brakes worked like they are supposed to everytime.

    See Ya,
    Keith

    [​IMG] <font color=green>Born to Drive My K5</font color=green> [​IMG]

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/californiak5>CaliforniaK5's Pictures</a>
     
  7. backlash

    backlash 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2000
    Posts:
    519
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Northern, VA.
    Boy, let me vent here! My truck was in the dealer so much for this problem, I bought a Forerunner. Trucks in the shop this time for 3 1/2 weeks! They have no clew. The entire system has been raplaced ... dealer style. One piece at a time.

    Does your truck feel like the brakes have no power assist when cold? Then when they warm up, they are OK? Then when then get hot they grab? Be careful, if so, When it rains they may lock up when hot ... even with minimal pedal pressure.

    Anyone got a clew? Good luck.
     
  8. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2001
    Posts:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Ouch. Sounds like it could be anything. I think my course of action should be to get all new hydraulic parts (minus lines) and get the rotors/drums turned. I priced it all out last night and its not to bad of a hit for the peice of mind you get. I figure around $230 to $300 depending on brands used.

    Once I finished, I'll have a shop do a power bleeding of the brakes. If my problem is not solved at that point, I try a new vacum booster as well. Damn it, it better be fixed by that time!

    -C
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.theonespot.com/myrides/suburban>1982 K20 Silverado Suburban</a>
     
  9. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2001
    Posts:
    713
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Same here i bought a mastercylinder/power booster combo from Napa, have had no problems since.
     

Share This Page