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strength and reliability of welded diff

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by willymonster, Mar 20, 2006.

  1. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    so as funds mat have it i am considering welding my 14 bolt . will it hold up to continous beatings ? tires will be 44s and im running a 454 . i know you always hear that eventually they will break but how long has yours lasted and what size tire are you running ?:confused:
     
  2. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    biggest question is .... how are your welds????

    I like my detroit locked...

    however I thought about lincoln locked too but didnt go that route
     
  3. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    usually i run detroits also but im currently unemployed and trying to scrape this thing together before spring . my welds arent the best but my buddy is a steam fitter i will have him do the welding . welding hardened metal is a nono but evrybody mentions welding diffs , i am ok with the fact it may brake EVENTUALLY because it will have been swapped out for a 14 bolt with detroit once i start working again . anybody have any tips for doing it ? i saw one welded by DYI and he put little pieces of metal between the gears then welde it solid , that was NICE!!!:laugh:
     
  4. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    there was one on the tech pages..... you weld every so many teeth grooves on the spiders....
     
  5. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Look for the write up/post that Kidjethro did. He had great instructions and pictures. I followed his method and its worked great so far.
     
  6. willymonster

    willymonster 1/2 ton status

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    search

    i just tried the search and couldnt find anything , i thought i checked thru the tech page and didnt see anything . maybey im doing somthing wrong:confused:
     
  7. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I searched to and couldn't find it. Maybe its too old? Anyway, add "attention Kidjethro" to your post title and maybe he'll post up the link or the pictures for you.
     
  8. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    A couple people tried that method, but they found out that it did not work.

    If you weld it, weld it solid! The nice thing about a 14-bolt is that you can just tack weld everything together to make sure everything still fits right, and then pull the spider and side gears completely out of the case and weld the crap out of it........you can get more weld area on it than just about any other type of diff. It's also very easy, and the standard method, to make it a "mini-spool" type setup so it's easy to remove the welded section and replace it with a Detroit at a later date.

    My rear 14FF has been welded since around '01 or so, 35's for the first couple of years and 38" TSL's since. I had the rear diff cover off several months ago changing the fluid and there were no signs of any cracking or junk in the oil. I've also broken two 30-spline D60 stubshafts and sheared the steering arm off the knuckle since so you know the truck gets used hard.
     
  9. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    No issues with strength and reliability of a welded diff IF you do the "gear ball" method.

    Here's a link to the original thread-
    http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90030&highlight=gear+ball

    This is my reply in that thread-

    The pictures in that thread don't work anymore, so here they are in no specific order-
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I ran my welded diff with 42's, 465+doubler and 5.13 gears...Not one issue with strength. :wink1:
     
  10. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    That method is the wrong method for welding a spiders. I know that several people including myself tried that method and it causes problems. There is slop in the diff with this method so it moves back and forth against the welds as you get on and off the gas and go from forward to reverse and such. The welds wear down and cause alot of slop in the diff. It also causes metal shavings to build up in the gear oil and diff. I believe that someone even cracked some spiders using that method because of the slop.

    I first tried the gap welding method and it did ok for a year or two but you could tell that you were getting more and more slop. I then switched to the spiderball method of Jethro's and it worked ALOT better. There was no more slop in the diff and the metal shavings stopped. It is just as easy to do the Jethro Method so don't waste time with the gap welding method. I know run a Detroit locker in the back and it works alot better then both of the previous weld jobs. I say this in terms of being able to turn on the trail, turn on the street, and all around driveablility.

    For a dedicated trail rig the Jethro Method is a good viable choice. For street and trail use I think a Detroit reigns supreme.

    Harley
     
  11. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    I did the "every other teeth" option the first time and it didn't work for very long, did the "spider ball" and have had no problems as of yet. Haven't opened the diff to see the insides but i've pulled the shafts and they show no signs of problems. Ive run this setup for about 4 years (though not running the past 1) 1st year was 465/208 and last 3 400/203/205
     
  12. hack500

    hack500 1/2 ton status

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    I have also done the spider ball but after I put it back together I welded the the exposed spider gears through the openings to the carrier. hasn't given me any problems. it took about 25 (don't remember if they were 5/32" or 3/16") rods to weld the entire thing.
     

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