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stuck in nuetral

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by PerdidoK5, Jan 27, 2003.

  1. PerdidoK5

    PerdidoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Okay,
    A few weeks ago, I go get firewood in my truck, really load it down. On the way home, I hear a loud clunking from under the truck when I turn, think nothing of it. The next time I drive it (less the firewood), the sound remains-louder this time, shaking the truck. I take it home, park it, and now it wont go in gear. When I try to move the gear select on the column or the range select on the floor, all I get is grinding-bad. My speedometer needle actually jumps up with each attempt. I dont even know where to start. I looked under the truck and all I see is one bolt is missing from the transfer case cross member.?? Any idea where to start? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Is it still full-time 4wd? Try getting the t-case into the lock position with the engine off. Then see if it will do anything. If it does move, then you probably lost something in the front driveline or the t-case chain.
     
  3. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    inspect your body mounts and engine mounts
     
  4. PerdidoK5

    PerdidoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, it is still full-time FWD, and has no lift. Turning the engine off/on has no effect on gears.
     
  5. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    try this- this is what i did when it happened to me- Take the t-case shift to 4 high loc-, then bring it up to 4 low loc, then bring it to neutral, then turn the truck on, and shift to neutral, shift to 4 high. worked for me. hope that works.
     
  6. PerdidoK5

    PerdidoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, I'll try that... Hope it works!
     
  7. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    This is a long shot, but with the information given, I thought about this...

    So, with this loud clunking "every once in a while" was it repetitive? If it was, maybe you should remove your diff covers and see if you have a broken ring gear. Perhaps now the truck was stopped perfectly on the broken portion of the ring gear, and now "grinding" when you put it in gear. This would make the speedometer jump.

    It makes this loud clunking that "shakes the whole truck" when turning, is one of your differentials broken?

    What I am getting at, if your truck doesn't have a mile marker part time kit, then if one of the differentals is bad then your NP203 is putting power to the diff that is broken - making the truck stand still. This theroy would also make the speedometer jump. Just a thought.
     
  8. PerdidoK5

    PerdidoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Well Mud, I just came in from trying the above "jam it in hi, low, nuetral, start, hi...scenario; no luck. I got it to go in reverse for a few feet. Lots more grinding, speedo, the whole thing.
    What do I need to do to check the diff? Open the axle?
     
  9. RClivin

    RClivin Registered Member

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    I just got my first car and know like nothing but I hope you work this problem out
     
  10. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    dude, check to see if your driveshaft is spinnin, not worth takin the whole cover and draining the diff unlees it really is broke.
     
  11. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Jack up the front or rear having both tires off the ground and rotate one side. If you have open diff's, you should notice the other tire rotating in the opposite direction. Check both, front and rear. Listen for noise when rotating. This may narrow it down to which diff it is.

    I am not 100% sure it's a differential, but just curious because of the signs you described. I am no stranger to broken 1/2 ton parts! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

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    could it be a broken drive flange on the front axle?
     
  13. ZonkRat

    ZonkRat 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like gears in one end broke.Check front axle joints.Got called out late nite recently by friend stuck.Front axle joint broke,took out ends of axle and stub.He didn't know to use hilock to make rear pull.The axle joint would be worse when turning too.Hope thats it,cheaper than gears. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifer /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. PerdidoK5

    PerdidoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Now that is an interesting idea. Im not sure I follow you about removing axle ends and stub. You mean inside the hub? I spent a few hours under there last night and tightened thr front drive flange bolts (to the tranfer case), they were all loose 2-3 turns. I also tried the linkage adjustment by pinning the arms in nuetral with a drill bit, then trying to line up rods. Could it be a bad fork?
     

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