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stud installation tool... help!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jekbrown, Aug 13, 2004.

  1. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    good lord, d60 steering arm studs are going to be the end of me. Im tired of trying to jerry-rig a solution to properly installing them. I've tried using my el-cheapo stud remover tool to install my new high zoot ARP studs and it just isn't working, I get the studs about 95% of the way in but they wont seat all the way down like they are supposed to and all my stud remover tool does is slip.

    Anyone know where I can get a REAL stud installation tool? Would any local parts place have them or am I gonna have to special order it by phone? Im thinking of one like this....

    linky

    or this...

    linky2

    Im gonna give it one last try today... hopefully it'll work... but for the long term I'd like I real tool made for this purpose.

    anyone?

    j
     
  2. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    threads clean?
     
  3. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Try chasing the threads with a "cleaning" tap and blowing all the crud out of the holes. You really shouldn't have too much of a problem seating them. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  4. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Snap-on tools make a stud installer/remover. Look for CG-500. You can buy them separately by size or buy a complete kit. These work great for both installing and removing studs without damaging the threads. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    You would need one of these, http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=10321&group_ID=1249&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

    Also one of these, http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=10334&group_ID=1249&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog. This one fits the factory size and pitch thread bolts.
     
  5. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    don't want to spend the money for the high zoot tool?? try my cheap fix, get 2 nuts that will screw onto the studsturn one about 1/2 inch above thepoint where it'll go into axle, then turn the other nut onto the stud down to the other nut and tighten the two together as tight as you can get them, then turn the top oneusing it as a bolt head to turn the stud in, if done correctly, shouldn't harm the threads, good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  6. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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  7. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    don't want to spend the money for the high zoot tool?? try my cheap fix, get 2 nuts that will screw onto the studsturn one about 1/2 inch above thepoint where it'll go into axle, then turn the other nut onto the stud down to the other nut and tighten the two together as tight as you can get them, then turn the top oneusing it as a bolt head to turn the stud in, if done correctly, shouldn't harm the threads, good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    wow, this is a hella good idea... I didn't even think of it. Like your average wanna-be gearhead I tried seating one stud using a single nut with predictable results. lol! anyway, have to try your trick, sounds like a good one.

    Thanks for the links also, that craftsman set looks very handy... and the truly correct tool (snap on links) looks even niftier, I just dont wanna spend the $$$$$$ on that stuff just yet. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    j
     
  8. Fry

    Fry 1/2 ton status

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    at work thats all we do, double nut the studs. Seems to get most of them in and out when needed.
     
  9. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Just stick with the double nuts. Works great /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Craftsman sells a stud remover, I was thinking about getting one the other day. They are always less expensive than Snap-On and just as high quality IMO.
     
  11. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    don't want to spend the money for the high zoot tool?? try my cheap fix, get 2 nuts that will screw onto the studsturn one about 1/2 inch above thepoint where it'll go into axle, then turn the other nut onto the stud down to the other nut and tighten the two together as tight as you can get them, then turn the top oneusing it as a bolt head to turn the stud in, if done correctly, shouldn't harm the threads, good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yep! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif Thats how I did mine.
     
  12. abcjames

    abcjames Registered Member

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    Sorry guys, I'm a newbie and am not familiar with the d60 but it seems like the snap-on tool was for pulling a stud with a knurl that comes in from the back side like a wheel stud and the double nut trick will only work for a threaded stud you are trying to get in from the front side.
     
  13. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    used unclematty's trick and it worked like a charm. Kick azz. Now all I need to do is shorten my drag link. lol!!! got everything installed, and the draglink hole in my new high-zoot steering arm is about 1/2" closer to the steering box than my rockstomper one... and my drag link is already adjusted as short as it will go... lol! it never ends,

    anyway, thanks guys!

    j
     
  14. bigmike72

    bigmike72 Registered Member

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    two nuts are always better than one....

    Sorry, couldn't resist /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  15. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Studs don't need to be bottomed out in the holes. All they need is to be installed in good clean threads with some red lock-tight. From what I have read they are stronger if not bottomed out.
     
  16. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    If you look at the knuckle, there is no way they can bottom out since it is tapped all the way through, unless by bottomed out you mean the unthreaded part of the stud hitting the knuckle. I just cleaned the threads, put a nut on the stud, and ran them down with a gun, then zipped the nut back off, then installed the arms and torqued the nuts to spec.
     

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