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Stupid hydraulic ram steering questions

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CyberSniper, Jun 12, 2004.

  1. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    OK, I've been looking into doing crossover steering on the trail rig so I can run 52s up front. I have everything but the arm, the new draglink, the hardware, and the machining to do the job. I figure $300.

    I realized, it might just be cheaper to go full hydro. Do you guys have problems with it taking like 3 turns to go one way and 2.5 turns to go the other way (difference in volume)?

    What are you guys using for rams (extended length, collapsed length, bore, shaft diameter, end types)?
    More importantly what are you guys using for valves?
    Anybody find a source for cheap double-ended rams?

    I'm kind of hydro inept so I'm going to keep searching through the archives... but I haven't really found an idiot's guide.
     
  2. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Check out PBB as there is a ton of hydro info over there. I know that full hydro is basically unstreetable (not sure if you plan to trailer it or not). I have driven a few sami's that were hydro (some buddies of mine). The 2.5-3 thing is wierd but not terribly awkward unless you are running high speed. I think it is something you could get used too though (I've only driven full hydro for about 20 mins so I am no expert)
     
  3. bgreen

    bgreen 1/2 ton status

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    If you want to have an equal number of turns in each direction you need to run a ballanced cylinder, IE, a double ended ram.

    My full hydro works fine on the street, and I'd personally not hesitate to put it on one a daily driver, BUT Id make damn sure it was an engineered system, not some junk yard fork lift mess.

    If your running a dana 60 front or most other light truck axles (not mogs, not rocks, etc) your prolly gonna want a 2.5" bore, 8" Stroke, double ended ram.

    The Orbitrol valve, (Not Orbital) needs to be the Open Center, Load Reactive, Non-Sensitive type, and needs to be matched to the volume of your ram, the output of your pump, and the style of driving you do. Your wheel base plays into it, imo, as well.

    For ram construction, I'd go with a 3" .250 wall cylinder, with no smaller than a 1.5" rod. I'd also get a the rod tapped for 3/4" NF so it matches standard Heim joints.

    More Hydro stuff
     
  4. bgreen

    bgreen 1/2 ton status

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    I forgot to talk about price... To do a hydro system capable of being reliable, and streetable, your gonna need to spend at least 1200 bucks. By the time you get hoses, and stuff your prolly looking at more like 1500 to 1800.
     

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