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Sub problem, loose wire?

Discussion in 'Audio' started by MNorby, Dec 23, 2006.

  1. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I have a pair of old kenwood bandpass truck subs and both have now stopped working. If I fiddle with the wires that go from the connector deal to the actual cone area it comes on and off like its come half disconnected in there. Is there any way to fix this?
     
  2. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Cut the wire and solder it to the tab on the subs again...most of the time people use stupid connectors because they work but soldering is the best way IMO.
    Or if the box is ported then run the wires straight from your amps and solder them directly to the tabs on the subs...one less connection.

    www.store.realmofexcursion.com sells all of the misc. parts for stuff like this if you want new connectors, etc.

    Snap some pics if you can...

    -A
     
  3. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    its not the connection part thats loose, its the part where the wire go into the cone that is loose.
     
  4. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    ahhhh...hmm I don't know how adventurous you are but you could pull the back off and see how it attaches to the cone...when my buddy fried one of his 15's in his bronco he took it apart and had a shop put a new cone in it...where's z3pr?

    -Avery
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    banned, where have you been?

    solder em up if they're loose. what have you really got to lose at this point? they dont work right anyways. :dunno:
     
  6. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    thats a fine point...have at em'

    -A
     
  7. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    its at the paper part of the cone, what would the solder stick to? I should see if I can get a good pic
     
  8. Avery4jc

    Avery4jc 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    yeah because it had to be attached originally...how did they do it? There has to be a metal tab somewhere...

    -A
     
  9. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I think it goes through the cone down to the driver and isn't making a good conneciton through the paper. I wiggle it and it come and goes
     
  10. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    Whoa guys, slow down. ;) He's not talking about the speaker wire connection on the sub is loose, he's talking about the tinsel leads.

    The tinsel leads have come loose from the solder connection where you plug the speaker wires into it? Or at the cone? I assume this is the standard tinsel layout, not woven into the spider? If its merely coming loose at one end or the other at the solder joints, yeah just resolder them. Be very careful not to drop any hot solder onto the subs suspension parts, the spider mostly as it will be directly below where you are soldering. Re-solidified metal doesn't lend itself to helping a soft and plyable material that needs to move in order to work properly. ;)

    If the tinsel wire has broken in half, you will need to replace it, not solder it back together. First off, the wire must be long enough to not pull tight as the cone moves to its excursion limits. Second, the tinsel wire must flex as the cone moves. A solder joint placed in the middle of that tinsel wire will great diminish its flexibility. Any time you have to resolder tinsel leads, it must always be done at the ends.

    Lastly, whats a kenwood bandpass truck sub anyway? :p: Kenwood's the brand name, I got that much. But bandpass is an enclosure type, not a speaker model, and raw subwoofers really are designed for truck specifically. It sound smore like you are describing the enclosure type than you are the actual speakers. In either case, imo it sounds like an upgrade is in order.
     
  11. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Its a KSC-BP110 speaker. Here are pics. I tried right stuff to see if I could get it to stay positioned where it made contact and worked but that worked about 20 min. If I wiggle the wires where they go into the speaker itself it will work or stop.

    DSC04081.JPG

    DSC04084.JPG
     

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