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Super heater?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dyeager535, Jul 14, 2003.

  1. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, so I'm putting my motor together (still lol) and noticed the heads have a coolant "port" between (as installed on engine) the #6 and #8 cylinders. Same one that's used for the coolant temp sensor on the drivers side.

    My heater hoses now run from the front of the intake to the heater core, then from the core to a fitting near the top of the radiator.

    Not sure if it will clear headers (don't have them YET) but with the stock under the plug manifolds, it would be fine.

    Wouldn't the water coming out of that port be about as hot as you could get? I have a feeling that would get the interior a little warmer in the summer if so, but to be honest, I would rather be too hot in the summer than too cold in the winter. (without carpet/insulation, it gets warm inside anyways) I want a defroster that works great, and I want the interior to be well heated if possible. Also just curious if perhaps that water could be TOO hot, and perhaps hurt the hose and/or heater box seals.

    The heavy duty heater does a fairly good job, but it just doesn't seem that the heater core is hot enough in the winter for the "high" fan position to be effective. It moves a lot of air, but feels as if so much that it comes out cool. One position slower on the fan, and you can feel how hot the air is, but it just doesn't circulate about the truck enough on that setting.

    I've never personally seen or heard of this attempted. With the TPI setup, this port, the front of the intake, (actually faces the front of the truck behind the alternator) or the top of the water pump are my only possible sources of heat, and I figure the much shorter hose would be a nice benefit. Could strap the plug wires to it as well. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Any comments or experience?
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    What thermostat do you run? A hotter thermostat helps big time with heat! I've always run a 195* and my heat burns me out of the cab!
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Top of intake next to the water neck is probably the hotest point you could get. That goes to the BOTTOM connection on the heater. If it goes to the top it will not flush any air bubles out of the heater core.

    Couple other things to check is that the heater belend door is opening all the way. Pop the glove box out and that's the conection on the top of the box.

    As was pointed out the Thermostat plays a major part in this as well. On both the Blazer and the Jimmy I had 180 degree stats and in the winter it was a little much if it was sub freezing. Remeber the 180 rating is when it's fully open. It's still letting water past at lower then that.

    Did the redneck cardboard infront of the radiator trick and it would bring the operating temp up to closer to what it runs in the summer and much better heat. I also do it because of the oversized tranny coolers I run. The trannys were not even registering on the gage at all (lowest noticable movement on the gage is about 140).
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've got a 195* also. Truck runs that temp all the time.

    I'm cold-blooded, so I need/want a heater that really cranks it out. Anyone with an AC setup will have the same "issue" I have, since the fan speed on "high" is the same as my HD heater setup, but it just seems to move more air, which I'm assuming cools off the heater core too fast. Being always cold, it may just be me that notices it.

    It's slightly better when the vehicle is moving, but when hunting and what not, there is a lot of idling and low engine RPM's, so the hot coolant isn't circulating very forcefully. At least thats my conclusion.
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Thats what I was thinking too about where its ported from now...about as hot as you can get. But also the rear cylinders are "undercooled" in stock form from what I've read. With the volume of coolant mixing at the point where stock heater fitting is (front of engine) I would imagine the temperature would be the absolute hottest as close to the combustion chamber as possible. I can't confirm that, but that was my other theory...the front SHOULD be the hottest because all the heat is transferred to the coolant, and thats where the coolant ends up, but by the time it gets there, any temperature difference LESS than what comes off the rear cylinders, would have absorbed any "excess" heat from that coolant. In other words, I don't think the coolant coursing through the block is even in temperature. Make any sense?

    I'm not even sure what the actual coolant path is...is it possible for there to be warm and cold spots in the block while the engine is running without blockages/bubbles?

    Let me reiterate, the heater blows heat, so its working, it's just not hot enough for me on the high position. The doors all work fine, I can go from cold to hot, but the hot just isn't hot enough. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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