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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by babyburb, Jan 19, 2007.
What should I do? I will eventually be running 38.5 boggers and will need more beef right?
Upgrading the 44 is nothing more than a ticking time bomb with anything larger than a 35" tire. Since you're asking the question you already know the answer.
actually I did not know the answer. New to 4x4's and had no clue. All the magz talk about upgrading axles to poly something and other stuff,. I did not know if it would be of the same caliper if it was upgraded. But I take it by your tone the D60 is a no brainer. Good... lesson learned
second ??? then. what year, makes and models do I need to look for at the salvage yards?
Thanks for the response 4x4high
The only trucks that came with the D60 are 1977-1991 1 ton chevy's, you can also run a D60 hi-pinion from a 1978-1979 ford but then you would need a drivers drop t-case.
Be prepared to spend anywhere from $1,000-$1,300 for a front D60.
38.5 is going to be alot for a 1/2ton axle. Maybe a beefed 1/2ton if all you do is street & show 'n shines.
Dana60 is a good idea, but they can be hard to find and pricey. Especially depending on where you live. I really feel the way to get the best deal on 1-ton axles is to find beat up 1-ton farm truck. Especially if you can find it locally driving around the back roads.
I'm not a D60 expert, but look for GM stuff. Heck just read this: Dana 60 Bible from pirate4x4.
Expect to pay anywhere from a typical "cheap" price of $600 up to $1200 depending gearing, condition, etc.
This is for a K20 3/4 ton burb with D44 and 14bff. Is the D44 a 3/4 axel or just 1/2 ton. I thought it was the 3/4 and the 10blt was the 1/2 ton
I dunno, Still learning
The only difference between a 1/2 ton axle and a 3/4 ton axle is the amount of lugs. This goes for both D44 ad 10 bolt. All 1/2 ton are 6 lug and all 3/4 ton are 8 lug. The 1 ton are 8 lug as well but a much BEEFIER axle.
all 8 lugs, so 3/4 ton axle. This is still not good for over 35s right?
I plan on a 6 in tuff country lift kit. Will it be a different kit going from d44 to d6o?
Another thread was talking about knuckles vs. ball joints. I figured out knuckles are the way to go but how do I tell the difference?
You forgot Dodges! They are a bolt-in under a Chevy, and are usually less expensive. Read the bible for more info.
Just read that bible I linked and you get all the answers you need about how to ID them, which is better, which trucks, etc...
It's a straight bolt-in in place of the D44 with the exception of the brake lines. You'll need brakelines that would work on a 10b application.
Dodge fronts are not the same spring spacing but very close. IIRC they are about 1" different and require offset bushings or spread the spings to make it work. Not ideal in my opinion.
The Other Differance Between 1/2 Ton And 3/4 Ton 10b/d44, The 3/4 Has 30 Spline Inner Axles And Carrier As Opposed To The 1/2 Ton's 28 Spline Axles And Carrier. I Do Agree Though, That A D60 Is The Way To Go.
Nope, all D44 are 30spline. 10bolts were 28spline up til 87 or 88, then they went to 30spline. That's regardless of 3/4 or 1/2 tons.
You guys and your 1 tons...Phhhbbbbbtttttttt
There, fixed it for ya
I am a supporter of 1/2 ton axles in certain applications but with 38.5" boggers I would be looking for a D60 if you plan to wheel it. I still run a 1/2 ton front on my K5 with 37" tires. It works well but I know it has limitations for sure. I already have money invested in my 10 bolt front so it is easier to add chromo's to it then look for a D60. My truck won't get bigger then 37" tires & is going to be semi-retired to a moderate four wheeling machine that is going to be a DD capable/hunting rig.
Now the buggy I plan to build will see at least 39.5" tires & will probably have a D60 front in it because I plan to beat the crap out of it.
And then another $1000 rebuilding it
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