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Swapping front Rotor tonight!

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SHINTON, Apr 22, 2003.

  1. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I did a quick search on this in the forum already and have been reading my Chilton's the last week or so.

    To swap out the rotor, it appears I will be disassembling the hub, there is 2 diff snap rings to look for, and something called a spindle nut. (Chilton's has a nice exploded diagram!)

    So.. what ELSE should I be doing in there tonight, and which of those parts should I just buy new while I am at it?

    Parts: Buying a new rotor, new caliper, new pads, and hopefully one of the rubber brake hose things that connect the caliper to brakeline. (Rumor has it that may be the issue instead of bad caliper...)

    Things I am thinking I may need? New "seals" I think there are 1-2, they appear to just be a few dollars? The wheel bearings were replaced a few years ago so I was just gonna repack em in grease?

    What am I missing... since it will already be open, what should I do while I am in there?

    TIA for all the help... I am lookg fwd to this, the Jimmy hasnt been out since last December! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif But with this tonight, I will be back on the road.. and going 4x4ing on Saturday!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Oh yeah.. the hub assembly/rotor are 'together' and I saw someone mention pressing the studs out to separate.. is this true? Is this something I can do at home or I am gonna have to get it done at a press? Durn Chilton's didn't mention this one I don't think! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Basically...how do u separate the hub and rotor? Pics?

    Sam Hinton
     
  2. naranja72

    naranja72 1/2 ton status

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    BFH


    just kidding, the best way would be to use a press to press out the studs, and then the two pieces will separate. There was a post a while back about NOT to use a lug nut to pull the stud into the new rotor as it can weaken the stud which could lead to a wheel coming off as you drive. So, the new studs should be pressed into the new rotor. Hope this helps.
     
  3. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

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    Set the old rotor on it's back. Drive the stud's out with an aluminum, or brass punch.[so you won't damage the thread's]. Then set the hub end down on a scrap of plywood, so you won't damage it, and drive the stud's back in.
     
  4. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Well just for information purposes in case anyone else does a search on this in the future!!!

    First of all, you WILL need a spindle socket for a 1/2 ton DANA 44, which is a 4 prong socket. Autozone has a SIX prong socket that they will rent you but it is for the 3/4 ton boys I believe!!!

    Next... I ended up using a combo of methods, essentially I bought some extra lugnuts from autozone, .59 each, and threaded them all the way on (just a little over the top so you hit the lug, not the stud and used a big F hammer to beat em out. The old rotor was sitting suspended on 2, 4x4 pieces of wood to absorb some of the hit.

    Ok.. to reseat them, essentially use a punch, as mentioned above. I actually pressed them in by hand, mounted the hub/rotor ONTO THE TIRE/rim, then used the lugnuts to hold it all together.

    I actually seated some of them by HAND, by using the tire wrench, this is harder but did a good job. But to finish all of them, I ended up using a punch (actually used the tire iron like a punch) and big hammer to put the final seat in.

    My air compressor was not quite heavy enough to seat them fully with impact wrench. Also we worried about screwing up the threads so we quit that pretty quickly and went with the BFH.

    One more note, you can buy the new studs for .99 each at autozone, I did this for a few I ruined anyway... (grinder will cut the stud off pretty well...

    Ok, MAKE sure you read the directions in chiltons on properly reseatng the wheel bearings. Essentially you will tighten the 'inside' nut to 50lbs, back off loose, again, loose and then 35ish lbs according to chiltons. (rotor should turn smoothly.) Basically I tightened inside really tight (get that sucker set), backed off loose, again, loose and then some pressure, had no torque wrench on me! When you take it OFF the first time, make sure to note how tight it feels and try to duplicate that!

    Then the outside nut is set to 50lbs according to Chiltons. Figured that might help someone. You must seat them properly or they will fail down the road. IF you put too much torque on the inner nut it will "fry" the bearings is what I read.

    That is all the wisdom I have to add, there is a thread on the Garage board with a few more pieces of wisdom, again, this note is for the future 'search' engine!

    Sam Hinton
     
  5. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    I rented the spindle socket at Schucks. I later went and bought one. The guy told me at first that you could only rent them. That was $6. To buy one was only $19.

    While your in there, check your ball joints. You'll have a lot of it appart so if the ball joints are starting to go, I'd replace then too.
     

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