Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Swapping out rear 10 bolt for 14FF

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by GUMBY, Jun 24, 2001.

  1. GUMBY

    GUMBY Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2000
    Posts:
    35
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alabama
    I'm getting a 14FF ready for a swap out of my rear 10 bolt. What do I need to consider upgrading as far as driveshafts, ujoints, etc.? What do I look out for to avoid problems?
     
  2. ScoobyDann

    ScoobyDann 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2001
    Posts:
    305
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    El Paso, TX (Far West Texas near Las Cruses
    im doing this REAL soon also. so far I've needed to buy a new u-joint that has different sizes to fit the drive shaft and yoke, part # 2-1153 (neapco,)u-bolts and spring plate from the junkyard, and did disk brake conversion, cost me about $250, check bearings, i reused mine, make sure it has the locking rings (a friend of mine was missing those, couldnt find them anyewhere) spring perches (mine had none) open the diff and check the gears, Thats all the stuff i've run into, if anyone else has more info let me know also

    hope this helps

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jimjim.coloradok5.com>http://jimjim.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. scrapmetal

    scrapmetal 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2001
    Posts:
    100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rathdrum ,ID
    Whatever you do, dont buy one of those conveted u-joints, if you have any lift at all it will vibrate like a bitch. I know I made the mistake of doing it. Spend the money and have a shaft made with a 1350 joint on one end and a 1310 on the other, or upgrade to 1350's on both ends and buy a new yoke, Only thing else is you need is new u-bolts and the 14FF plates, everything else is a bolt in. The e- brake is the same,so are the brake lines, and shock mounts, as long as you havent done it yet, do what I did, and before you put it in, take the shock mounts off, and relocate to the middle of the housing, I did this for two reasons, I ripped one off with a rock and two, you don't have to buy a six foot shock to mount to it,,lol,, anyways, Ive got a 60 and 14, so any questions feel free,, I also took off the dufus mounts and put on heavy duty mounts an inch taller, no lifts blocks just one ton springs and I run 38's,,made out of receiver square tubing, course this is if you have a gas axe and welder,, if not,, go get one, nows the time,,

    Never been stuck, just temporarily delayed.
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    I have the hybrid U-joint and mine doesn't vibrate. I'm lifting mine more so I'm going with a CV shaft in the back. Maybe the K5 will vibrate though becuase it's a shorter wheelbase than my shortbox K10, but not by much.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  5. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2000
    Posts:
    658
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    southern california
    If you are using the CV style shaft make sure you have the pinion pointed up towards the t-case...
     

Share This Page