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sway bar?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by RIDNHIGH, Dec 2, 2001.

  1. RIDNHIGH

    RIDNHIGH Registered Member

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    I have finished putting my 6" ProComp lift in my 85 K5, easy and fun, except for the damn steering arm! Ohh yea and i recked balljoint boot seals. Now i need to take it in for alingnment longer front shaft the basics. I dont know what to do for the sway bar though? Its about 1/2" short if that from fitting the bolts through. Can i just put a few washers in to put it forward just enough to bolt in ?
     
  2. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Some people remove their swaybars all together. I've seen people put a spacer block inbetween the frame and the sway bar connection. So yes I would think you could stack washers to make up the difference.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  3. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    ORD swaybar relocation/disconnect kit.

    My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.
     
  4. RIDNHIGH

    RIDNHIGH Registered Member

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    I know i can drive it without the sway bar, but with 6" of lift and no sway bar doesnt it get a little tipsy on the street, being that i have to drive it everyday in wind and snow too!
     
  5. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking of disconecting mine to? 4" lift. Any thoughts?
     
  6. sapper

    sapper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    never put mine back on with 4"s. our truck of the month is running 6"s suspension,3"s of body and no sway bar. depending on how stiff your front springs are you can be ok withou it

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradoK5.com/gallery/Pauls89K5>http://coloradoK5.com/gallery/Pauls89K5</a>
     
  7. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

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    didn't run mine with 2 1/2" lift hated driving the truck on the street. Put the sway bar 100+% better now I can drive the truck not try to keep it on the road
     
  8. Liberator

    Liberator 1/2 ton status

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    My swaybar has been disconnected for almost a year now. I like the way it handles on and offroad. I noticed a big difference on the highway, much smoother than before! Running a 4" Tough Country suspension and a 2" body, I don't notice any stability problems. The truck leans a little more during slow speed turns, but it's barely noticeable.

    Bo

    If it breaks, it wasn't good enough!
    http://coloradok5.com/gallery/liberator
     
  9. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Rough country is my lift. Nitrogen shocks.. Guess that answers my question bout removing the sway bar..
     
  10. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I miss my swaybar. I also think the detroit locker compounds not having the swaybar - pushes and rolls through the corners. Once you get used to it it is OK. Very upsetting to passengers who aren't prepared. White knuckle funny!

    Dave

    Horn Broken... Watch For Finger.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics</a>
     
  11. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought a pair of brackets from Wes on here that allow you to drop the sway bar mount to match your added lift. I drive my K5 primarily on the HWY at 70+mph daily, so having my sway bar geometry correct was important to me. I like having it there, and having the control.

    1990 K5 4" lift, 33's, 3.73's Raptor Tranny and Velvet Rides....
     
  12. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I have the x over steering from ORD. I don't think anyone has been able to get a stock swaybar to work with the ORD kit. Or have you heard different (hope, hope!)?

    Stephen - we need this mod please!!!!

    And I drive my truck like you do here in SF. People stay well clear of me!



    Dave

    Horn Broken... Watch For Finger.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Daves-Pics</a>
     
  13. Nrose07

    Nrose07 1/2 ton status

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    I've got a Rough Country 4" lift with new Poly bushings through out, including the sway bar. 4" raised steering arm, new Rancho steering stabalizer (single), and the RC hydo shocks. I've got bump steer bad after the lift and I thought it might be the sway bar not being lowered so I went to put some BDS sway bar drop brackets in and they wouldn't fit. They wanted to move the bolts to far forward so I left it stock. My next thought was the ORD steering brace. If you guys have any suggestions, please!

    Displacement, cubes, and did you say you drive a riceburner???
     
  14. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I would start with ORD's swaybar disconects to get rid of the bump steer. The steering box brace is also a great idea.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here</a>
     
  15. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    As with a lot of other things, everyone will have a different opinion about having or not having a sway bar. I have the RC 4" lift and originally had the sway bar connectd like stock. It really caused the front of the truck to bounce a lot. I disconnected it and felt very uncomfortable on highway turns. Driving down our local tollway with the flow of traffic (about 70-75 MPH) was down right scary. I installed the ORD correction /disconnect kit and have never been happier. I have much better control on road with the quick disconnect ability when leaving the pavement. I highly recommend it for a highway driven vehicle. But, that is just how mine rides. Pretty cheap mod to try and easy to bolt on. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to install.

    For those with more than 4" lift, I don't see why you couldn't simply put some sort of spacer (block aluminum maybe) between the brackets and the frame cross member up front to "drop" those connection points to help correct for the added lift. Combine that with the ORD kit and it would be essentiall like stock. Same theory here as is used with the raised steering arm. Stock geometry works best. As far as crossover kits... SOL.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  16. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I think the disconnects might be the way to go. When I get the time I'll disconnect mine and see if I like it. If not I'll order the disconnects. I saw a post about the the ORD steering box brace up above. I'm thinking about just welding a steel brace in and save a few dollars. I know they support this site but not having a lot of money sometimes is tough and steel is cheap. Anyone see a reason it wouldn't work?
     
  17. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    You NEED disconnects. The Lift Kit Manufacturers don't advertise this, but their springs are longer than stock, so the swaybar doesn't need to be dropped as much as it needs to be moved rearwards (The bar is already designed to travel up and down with the front axle - if the lift spring just had more arch, the swaybar would work fine). Without this, everything is binding in the front and the truck will ride like a tank and go boing, boing, even on little bumps since this can't be damped by the shocks.

    The disconnects give you another degree of motion that lets the whole front end work together happily. Plus it gives you a truck that handles good AND articulates. You won't get both of these features without a swaybar and disconnects.

    If you have a lift and stock swaybar, try taking it off someday and then tell me that the truck doesn't ride smoother, corner worse and actually articulate in the front.

    If you don't have a swaybar, put it back on and then tell me that it doesn't corner better and ruin your front articulation.

    With the disconnects, you get the smooth ride, good cornering and off-road flex by pulling the pins.

    <font color=green>Oh man, 4:10's are sure better than 3.08's!</font color=green>
     
  18. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Truthfully my truck handles better without my front swaybar. Then again I have stiff Rancho front springs and the swaybar was prolly causing most of the bad handling not being corrected.

    If I had softer front springs I'd probably remount the swaybar with some disconnects of some sort.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  19. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    well NEED disconnects is harsh
    need endlinks yes
    i would leave the bar in the stock location and build long end links (disconnects being an easy option to incorparate)
     
  20. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Fair enough. You need some other degree of movement or a different swaybar or stock springs. Or have custom springs made with the center hole in the wrong spot and move the front axle forward 1/2". That would be cool.

    <font color=green>Oh man, 4:10's are sure better than 3.08's!</font color=green>
     

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