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Swaybar and lift?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mudstud, Jun 9, 2001.

  1. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    I'm looking at probably a 4" lift from Superlift- They tell me that I don't need the swaybar drop brackets but I don't see how this can be. I know what you all are thinking- I should just order the ORD swaybar disconnects but man-I'm on a tight a*# freakin budget. I'm thinking I could get some square steel tubing and drill that out to make my own and drop it 2" that way. What do think of their advice of no need for the drop brackets?

    Stuck is a state of mind!

    Mudstud
    76K5 sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12 locked
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well if the springs are stiff like most sky jackers then you can run without a sway. I can tell you for a fact that with the sway you will have some serious bump steer and other bind issues. Might be better with the drop brackets but really like the Disconnects. I put it off for almost 2 years and after getting them wished I had done it sooner.
    I also recomend the steering brace. Even on the street it makes a big difference. After wheeling it seemed the steering wheel was alwasy at a different angle. Cured that too.
    After adding those 2 products my truck handles every bit as well as my wifes bone stock 79.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Crawl under and take a look at how the brackets are mounted to the frame. They aren't mouned to the bottom of a flat crossmember, so blocks won't move the mounting point straight down, they will move it towards the back of the truck as well. [​IMG]

    The lowering brackets that I've seen are bent at diagonal angles so that the mounts for the sway bar get lowered straight down. They don't appear easy to make unless you have access to a pretty hefty brake for bending steel plate. [​IMG] I suppose you could also cut out some steel plate pieces and weld them together to get the correct geometry. Might be easier to just get the right parts to begin with. [​IMG]

    I've got the ORD disconnects and they are very nice pieces! Plus they have the added benefit of being easy to unhook when you want to go wheelin'.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</A>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  4. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    I tried doing a 4" lift without the swaybar correction and nothing up front lined up right and I couldn't get the ubolts tightend cause the sway bar put too much stress on the front. So, I took it off until I can get the swaybar correction/disconnect kit. I'm just driving mine in town right now. I'm not going on the highway or anything.

    <font color=red>I'm a psychic amnesiac. I know in advance what I'm going to forget. </font color=red>
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    So you recommend the disconnects.... do you think it is better then the sway bar drop kit I have on now since it is suppost to swivel? I can't really tell if I have anybinding yet. It definetly sounds good!

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  6. xtreme_wlr

    xtreme_wlr 1/2 ton status

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    I would also recomend the disconnects if you are going to keep the swaybar. They should compensate for the lift and put less stress on the frame mounting points. I havent run with a swaybar for years tho, so I could be mistaken. dont think I still have it even :)

    78 Chevy 1 ton Stepside RockCrawler
    468 BB, SM465, NP205
    D60 front, GM 14Bolt w/ Detroit
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bowtiecrawler.com>http://www.bowtiecrawler.com</A>
     
  7. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I also recomend the ORD disconnects. I put my lift on. And drove around for about 6 weeks. I had bumpsteer and needed and a kidney belt. I put the disconnects on and it made all the difference in the world. I to thought about making a drop. But with the angle it was going to be fun. Spend the extra money on this. It is well worth it..........Dan
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah I think it's better than the drop kit. The new springs make the axle cycle in a different arc than GM designed the bar for. Dropping the bar cannot correct for this. It makes it better but still not a cure. The extra fore aft movement that the disconnects allow does correct the problem. Plus you can pop the bar loose for trail rides to make the truck flex. I'm very impressed with it like I said. If I got behind a transfer truck on the hwy my truck got real squirley and rocked bad just from the wind. I had to get the sway back on for the hwy just because of that. This let me do it without geting back into the bump steer problem. Also I did a lift for ground clearence. Dropping the bar takes some of that away and it hangs stuff on real steep approaches or branches.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  9. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks guys and gals! I figured the drop kit was all I needed but everyone has gotten me thinking much more indepth about what a sway bar does... Looks like another check to Stephen... may he can put the profits into some time to get the upper rpm prob fixed so he can take the TTC next year [​IMG]

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     

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