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Swaybars on a 99 2500 burb

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dhcomp, Dec 5, 2006.

  1. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, so the PO of my 99 2500 burb put on aftermarket sway bars, front and rear. He towed a 3000lb boat, and somehow thought that the rear of this truck wasn't stiff enough.....:doah:

    The front swaybar is now something he ordered from ORU back in 1997. Part number 19327.

    Rear swaybar is a helwig unit, part number Hel 7608.

    I don't plan to tow anythign super heavy with this truck, and don't think i like the handling with the swaybars. Remember, this truck didn't come from the factory with a rear bar as far as i know. Currently, all body roll comes from teh 33 bfg At's that are on there.

    I had a 94 full size blazer, and am used to the handling from that. The suburban doesn't body roll much, but it makes me nervous because i dont' know when i am approaching its cornering limits. Plus it doesnt' flex for $hit, and would like to at least play around in the dirt, and not be beat up going into driveways :haha:

    Would it be a bad idea to remove the rear bar, and see how it drives with a non-stock front bar? If i wanted to try out a stock front bar, is the burb bar the same as a 3/4 ton truck? Anyone have an old one laying around?

    What would you guys do in my situation? Thanks!
     
  2. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    no one?
     
  3. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    You should be fine removing the bar on the rear as for the bigger front bar I'd leave it Ifs fronts "flexing" really shouldn't be affected by the sway bar
     
  4. ChickenRammit

    ChickenRammit 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    i'm pretty sure they come from the factory with one in the rear, i see'em all the time on the freeways here.
     
  5. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    with the 14bolt rear? ALL the 1/2 ton suburbans (and i think 4 dr tahoes) came wiht a rear bar, but i don't think the 3/4's ever did from teh factory.
     
  6. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    My sub has swaybar on thr rear and so does my 93 K3500:confused:
     
  7. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, then i lose. Guess i really havent' seen enough around. maybe the bar will stay on there for a while?

    Thanks for the input.

    Now i gotta get back to trying to figure out what that thumpy noise is when i hit small bumps in teh front at speed...... Shock ends, or swaybar ends or swaybar mounts or....?

    Front is so stiff i can't rock it enough in the driveway to find the noise
     
  8. ChickenRammit

    ChickenRammit 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    check yer ball joints or the control arm bushings, most likely the upper control arm. i have a '99 k3500, i know that front end inside and out. does the front end sit up a little higher than the rear? you may want to check the torsion bars, the po may have them cranked down all the way to raise up the front end, might be why it rides so stiff. my k3500 rides like im in a cadillac.
     
  9. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    hm, don't think its cranked at all, cause the 285's will rub when flexed. It sits pretty much level. I'll check out the control arm bushings.....was hoping it wasn't that major.

    Will worn tie rod ends make any noise?
     
  10. ChickenRammit

    ChickenRammit 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    yeah, have someone steer the wheels right to left over and over and keep an eye on the ball joints and the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods, look for any slop, also make sure that those sleeves are tightened, sometimes the crackheads at the alignment shops will forget to snug them back down. most likely its going to be in the control arms though.
     
  11. ChickenRammit

    ChickenRammit 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    your burb doesn't have a 5.7 in it by any chance, does it?
     
  12. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Check your pitman and Idler arms these trucks are notorious for them
     
  13. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    When i had AAA inspect it before purchase, they told me the TRE's are worn. I'll replace them when i can afford to.

    And no, it doesn't have teh 350 in it.....
    Been getting a constant 11mpg freeway recently with the 454.......got 13 once over a 100 mile stretch though:crazy:
     
  14. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    ya need some 315-70-16's to drop your highway Rpm
     
  15. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Damn right i do!
    but that requires a lift.....

    3.73's are probably a better bet if i can find a parts truck....

    right now i just gotta suck it up and put the $$$ into the pump
     
  16. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I have that setup in a parts truck but I'm in alsaka and shipping that stuff would be a pain I don't have much time to pull parts we could probaly work something out though if your serious
     
  17. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Definitely would be interested, but not right away. Gotta get through teh holidays/surgery so i can get back to work.

    Wonder what a gear install would cost, if i supplied the gears?

    When you come back to NM?
     
  18. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Not sure what it would cost I'll be back In New Mexico from the 20th - 3rd
     
  19. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

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    I had a 99 3/4 ton on 33's, I liked how it handled, factory, no sway bars,


    plus if it is anything like the 1/2 ton version they are rock catchers

    I had 3.73 and the 454, got around 10-12 average, I also carried it loaded with work supplies..
     

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