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Synthetic worth the $$$?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by UseYourBlinker, Oct 17, 2001.

  1. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I can get redline synthetic oil for cheap and was wondering if it really helps an engine with 60,000 miles on it?
    Anybody use it?

    Dark Lotus-Tales from the Lotus Pod
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  2. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't how true it is, but some say switching to synthetics on a high mileage engine may cause leaks. I guess it is not because it kills seals, but that it is more consistent in molecule size (smaller), and may seep through small cracks that conventional oil won't. Like I said, I don't know this for a fact, it is just what I have been told.

    See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot</a>
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I also have read that. I don't use it cuz I am always chnging it so don't need the exta cost. If you don't rutinly change your fluids then the sythetic stuff will last a ton longer than regular oil.

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  4. agreed...

    change the cheap stuff at every 3k, and you can get an easy 200k out of a 350. the valve guides will wear out, and smoke a bit at startup, but other than that it'll be fine...
     
  5. Sparky87k5

    Sparky87k5 1/2 ton status

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    I run synthetic oil in the engine, trans, TC and rearends. Oil leaks are nil, consumption is virtually 0 and I find my oil samples are coming back with great results. The lab where I work does an analysis of the oil and I'm liking the results I get. Change engine oil every 7000, oil filter every 3500, trans, TC &amp; rearends every 40K. Most miles are hiway but under towing (working) conditions. No problems so far.

    A good firm grip is my idea of gun control!
     
  6. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    The leaking can occur. It happened on my S-10 with the 4.3. I was told it was because the oil actually cleans the gunk out in between the gaskets. It is a much cleaner oil, but IMO not worth it for someone who changes oil every 3000.
    I use syn. in my ZZ4 and race truck because they are high revvers.

    The S-10's have had dino oil for 288k+ and 213k+. (not a typo) With one change of syn once. These are the orig motors. Owned since new. Just pennzoil every 3000 religiously.

    My .02,
    John

    <font color=blue>"When all else fails, read the instructions, or get a bigger hammer"</font color=blue>
     
  7. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    If you can get Redline cheap then do it that is some really expensive oil and the best that you can buy!!!!! Is it possible for you to get Redline 2 cycle cheap because I would DEFANETLY buy it from you several gallons if you could get it....it's for snow machines I run,... and in the past Redline has been the BEST..... Bar NONE, I would take 3 gallons immediately if you could get it. Mike
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    If your engine burns oil then don't bother with synthetics. My Dad's F*rd burns some oil, but when he had me change the oil to a synthetic it burned alot more oil then normal, and it was enen that stuff for "higher milage engines". If your truck doesn't burn much oil and you can get it cheap then do it.
     
  9. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I wouldn't use it in an older vehicle... I don't think it is really worth the added expense for most people. I usually run a synthetic in my race motors for friction purposes but that's it...

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  10. Sparky

    Sparky 1/2 ton status

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    IMO... its worth its weight in gold. So you pay 2 bucks more per gallon per oil change. Thats 10 bucks more per oil change at an average of 20,000miles/3000miles= 6.67 times a year. That means you only pay 60-70 bucks a year more on oil than you would if you used synthetic. Ive seen a van go 300,000 plus on synthetic without ever takeing the valve covers off, and i've seen a suburban go 260,000 on synthetic without takeing the valve covers off. Both are still going strong today. The cost of synthetic IMO outweighs the cost of engines easily. Plus it will run better longer, but I do agree... dont put it in an already high mileage engine.

    Sparky

    When all else fails... Check the blinker fluid.
    78 K-5
     
  11. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Amen Sparky.

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    WIth 60k miles, I'd say go for it.

    Surgeon General's Warning:
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  13. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    In response to your post Sparky, this is not intended to upset anyone, but

    The valve covers on either one of my S-10 have never been off either. Now without a page of useless details, i'll say these vehicles has been run hard, very hard....BUT very well taken care of.

    I dont doubt the benefits of synthetics, in fact i use them in my racing engines, but there are engines/vehicles that run just as long on dino oil with regular changes.

    I think the concensus is not to put it in a high mileage engine..

    Just my .02
    John

    <font color=blue>"When all else fails, read the instructions, or get a bigger hammer"</font color=blue>
     
  14. steve85fla

    steve85fla Registered Member

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    I just got a new GMC seirra, 5.3 v8 and intend to run synthetic, how many miles should I run it before i go to synthetic? It has 1,400 miles right now.
    Thanks
     
  15. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    GM puts it in Corvettes from the factory. Or they used to. It was Mobil 1 10W-30. I would wait until 3000 miles then switch. However, this is just in my opinion.

    John

    <font color=blue>"When all else fails, read the instructions, or get a bigger hammer"</font color=blue>
     
  16. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    If you think petroleum and synthetic have the same wear characteristics, why do you advocate waiting until 3000 miles to add synthetic?

    The truth of the matter is, petroleum doesn't even come close to sythetics for lubrication. Not even close. At all.


    On another note, Mobil1 has reformulated, and is actually not as good as it used to be [​IMG]

    Top two now are Amsoil and the new Pennzoil Synthetic, as per independant laboratory wear test.

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  17. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    I switched to Amsoil synthetic last fall, and will never look back. 2 winters ago, I had innumerable days that the truck wouldnt turn over or had a hard time starting due to the oil, and it was 5W30 regular. I switched to the 5W30 synth. and last winter it never even hesitated, even at -40. It does cost more, but like was said, most reputable synth companies recommend only changing the filter and adding a quart every 3000 miles, then sending in a sample. If its good, you dont have to change it till like 50000 miles. So the cost is outweighed. I put mine in my new rebuild, but I waited till I was absolutely sure it was broken in... like about 7000-8000 miles. It didnt leak before I started using it, and it doesnt leak now.

    Mike


    <font color=blue>Thumper
    85 Fullsize Jimmy
    [​IMG]
    <font color=red>Aint Skeered!! </font color=red>
     
  18. waiting 3k to let rings seat.

    i wait 15 hours on a new jetski motor before it gets synthetic... then synthetic only... the interesting thing to note here is the big noticeable difference in running syn versus regular- i get carbon deposits on piston tops and powervalves with dinosaur oil, but just slick black goo with synthetic.... washes right away with carb cleaner, in fact i run about 30-40 hours between powervalve cleanings versus 20 on the old stuff.....

    why isin't synthetic used in aviation engines? something about how it all goes to the bottom of the oil reservoir rather than coating the parts?

    this debate is very interesting....
     
  19. Danno

    Danno 1/2 ton status

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    I run synthetic in my diesel which is about ready to turn 200,000 miles. No leaks, much easier starting, and lower oil consumption than when the truck had dyno oil in it. I'll never go back to dyno oil!

    A friend of mine has an '84 Jeep CJ-7 with the 4.2L I-6, and that thing leaks and burns synthetic like nothing I've ever seen before. He has to run dyno oil.

    Give synthetic a chance. If you don't have any major oil leaks, chances are you won't develop any when you switch to synthetic. Throw some synthetic in, go 3000 miles, change oil and filter, go another 3000 miles, then send in for testing. Keep track of whether or not any new leaks appear.

    1984 K5 Blazer 4x4 Silverado
    6.2L diesel, 700R4, 3.42 gears, 31x10.5" tires
     

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