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T-case lowering----Curious

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jackedjimmy, Jul 19, 2002.

  1. jackedjimmy

    jackedjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    I did a search and found good info on how to do it and i know why you would have to.

    But by lowering the t-case by flipping the spacers, isn't that really just tipping the whole drivetrain back and putting stress on the engine mounts? This would also make the angle for your front driveline more raddical right....
    Unless I'm missing something

    Anyway, I'm nowhere close to this point, but just curious.
     
  2. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    i dont know about motor mounts being more stessed but it does put more angle on the front shaft...you can buy a 1" spacer made by superlift that can help push out the shaft so it wont be such a big angle...

    Later
     
  3. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    so if i lower the t-case with the 1" spacers and put the spacer from superlift in my front D44, i'll be ok?
     
  4. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    I've got my t-case lowered 1" without a spacer on the front driveshaft...No problems at all. Been this way for 8 or 9 months now. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  5. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    i ran a 6" kit for about 2 years with the t-case lowered the 1" and never had a problem with it...now im running almost 10" up front and my driveshaft wont go in...so im gonna run the spacer up front and rerun my exhaust so the factory crossover pipe is no longer in the way...

    with 6" or less you should be fine just dropping the case 1" and thats it...if you have problems with it get the spacer...its only 50 bucks

    Later
     
  6. loudnowlouder

    loudnowlouder 1/2 ton status

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    yes and yes
    it does make the front driveshaft angle worse, and yes it does stress the motor mounts more than before...
    however, i did this on mine when i put my 4 inch lift on, and it made a big difference...
    my rear driveshaft was binding up when i let off the gas at like 50 mph...
    lowered it and instantly stopped..
    my front driveshaft was made stock to be in a higher angle situation since it has the extra joint by the transfer case, so a little more angle didnt cause any additional problems...
    and as far as the motor mounts, sure they're stressed a little more, but nothing to worry about...
    made the engine swap a hair more difficult, but had i not done it before i wouldnt have known any difference...
     
  7. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    I was under my sub today and noticed that there isn't any spacers from the factory to flip to the other side, and i also noticed that my crossmember is connected to the top and bottom of the frame rails. So will i have to make my own spacers? '75 K10 burb NP203 350/TH350 w/ 33's
     
  8. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    most likely yeah you will have to make some...theyre not hard to do...we made some for my buddies k30 a few weeks ago...took some small diameter steel tubing and just cut it down to about an 1" a piece and bolted it in...didnt take long at all

    Later
     
  9. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    True, won't be hard to make at all, since I have use of my dad's lathe and/or mill /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  10. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    there you go

    Later
     
  11. 1979Jimmy

    1979Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    I Ran a little mor ghetto setup. just took an inch of washers and stacked them up seem to hold fine. I think im gunna do it right though in a little bit.
     
  12. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Only thing that is gonna suck for me is that I have to make 8 of the spacers.
     
  13. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    Make your spacers out of one solid piece of metal in stead of two little unstable spacers per side. Use a piece of 1" sguare tube or something along those lines. You will retain the stability of your crossmember this way.
     
  14. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Yeah i know that, its just that my cross-member is bolted to the top and bottom frame rails.
     
  15. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Mine was bolted to the top and bottom rails too....Now it's just bolted to the bottom rail. The part that bolted to the top rail on the passenger side, I just unbolted and left it there. The one on the drivers side that wraps around the outside of the frame and bolts to the to the top of the frame rail, I unbolted, then cut the rest of it off with the plasma cutter. Now it ends at the frame rail. Nothin wraps up around the frame any longer. I've got a piece of 1" square tubing for a spacer. I've been runnin it this way for almost a year, and have had no major problems. The only problem I've had since droppin the t-case is sometimes it pops outta 4 low....Thats just cause I havent gotten around to adjusting the linkage. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     

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