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Tack weld nut

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rcamacho, Oct 16, 2005.

  1. rcamacho

    rcamacho 1/2 ton status

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    Folks, I'm considering tack welding the 3/8" nuts that join the stock 208 skid plate to the x-member. Any suggestions on technique other than keeping the heat low and tap cleaning the threads afterwards?
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I prefer to weld with the bolt in place and keep the heat as low as I feel safe for penetration.
     
  3. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    ding, ding, ding... we have a winner! :D
     
  4. 88sub4x4

    88sub4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I agree!
     
  5. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    HEE HEEE HEE HE SAID PENETRATION!!!!! :haha:

    sorry few killians and everything is funny now :bow:
     
  6. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I'm curious, why would you want to do that?
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Maybe he is boxing the frame. Its a neccessity in that case. I will likely do something similar since I'm heavily considering boxing the S10s frame.
     
  8. rcamacho

    rcamacho 1/2 ton status

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    I have to drop the xmember shortly to eliminate the trans case drop and convert to a CV shaft. Seems to me that If I tack the nuts it will save the usual gymnastics with two wrenches.
     
  9. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Better, if you have the option, is to weld in a threaded piece of steel of at least the same thickness as the height of the nuts, but a little longer in at least one direction. I put anti-sieze on the threads of the sacrificial bolts I use to hold the "nut" in place, and weld it away from the threaded hole. Then you can turn the heat up and not be as likely to mung the threads.
     
  10. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Ah, great ideas. Thanks!
     

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