Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Tailgate Parts

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Ozark, Apr 13, 2000.

  1. Ozark

    Ozark Newbie

    Mar 28, 2000
    Likes Received:
    I recently bought a '90 K5 and really like it but I'm having problems with the tail gate. When I got it a few weeks ago the electric window worked fine. Well, it made a lot of squeeking and creaking when it went up and down but it worked. Recently I have had to pull up on the glass to get it to go up. The metal part that connects to the bottom of the glass looks rusted but everything else looks fine. What can I do to make it work better? Also, the latch for the tailgate dosen't work. I have had the panel off and it just looks worn out. Everything looks like it is connected but the moving parts just don't seem to move far enough to release it. I can get it to release by pulling/pushing the rods that connect to the catches and it will come down but this is a real pain. Can I just get a replacement latch mechanism?

    I have looked at chiltons and haynes manuals and they don't describe the tailgate assembly well enough for me to understand. Where can I find a drawing of the latch mechanism and the window parts?

    If any of this is confusing just let me know and I will try to give a better explanation.


  2. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

    Feb 19, 2000
    Likes Received:
    This is one of the many Blazer charm's.
    The window lets water run down on to the regulator and the wind blows road-dust inside the tailgate, This causes everything to get really sticky and rusty.
    I would recomend you start with the driverside hatch. Remove, clean and lube it up with some quality grease. You can test it on the batteri with a test-light to see if it workes fine.My 88 hatch looked fine after I got all the old grime of it. Without this "deadman-switch" the window thinks the tailgate is open and power is cut off.
    Next I would take out and power-steam the regulator and regrease that to. It is an easy jobb. With the tailgate down:Just disconnect the motor wire and run the window up with a batteri-drill. Use garden furniture to suport the window so it doesent brake. The regulator assembly is 3-4 bolts and you slide it off the sash channels and its free.
    You should also put some WD-40 in the motor-wire itself.
    This is one of the first things I did when I got mine and it turned out great. I later did both my power-windows and they came out great to.
    Good luck and if you can, take pictures of the procces and maybe Steve could post it in the tech section. This seems to be a common problem that comes up often.

  3. Hey Ozark. I have no idea if this'll help, but I had the same problem with my window not going up or down a few days ago. I found out it was from the heat actually.

    On mine, the threaded cap that pulls the motor wire into the motor wasn't actually connected to the wire. It was only taped with electrical tape! So when it got hot the tape started to melt and the motor wire was pulling out the threaded cap and the motor.

    You might want to try disconnecting the motor wire and running the window up and down a few times with a drill or pliers (like I had to do!) to isolate the problem to the motor/motor wire or the window itself.

    Hope this was at least a little help!

Share This Page