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'Tain't one thing, it's another ... diesel fuel lines?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dremu, Dec 6, 2006.

  1. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    The tranny in the CUCV (M1009, stock, as sig below) was giving out, so I yanked it, had it rebuilt, and put it back in today.

    All was well behaved (save it took a LOT of fluid ... do TH400HD's take like eighty gallons or something?) ... BUT when I went to check for leaks below, there's a sizable drip of *diesel* :eek1: right about the front of the tranny, i.e. the back of the engine block. I *swear* that wasn't there before. :mad:

    Is there a fuel line back there that I could have crunched putting the tranny back in? Maybe going to that goofy fuel filter on the firewall?

    Alternately, anybody wanna give me a quick run-down on how the fuel lines in this thing work, as I'm used to the gassers, hardlines down the frame rail, rubber on each end to the tank and the fuel pump on the front of the engine. I would presume this thing is at least somewhat different?

    -- A
     
  2. savagek5diesel

    savagek5diesel 1/2 ton status

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    i have diesel fuel that runs down the tranny too, but mine leaks from the throttle arm on the IP, pools up under the intake manifold, then runs back.
     
  3. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    So I should start looking up top, then? Just happened at the same time as my tranny swap?

    Aargh, it never ends!

    -- A
     
  4. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    diesel fuel will run from anywhere on the engine valley down the tranny bell. i had a leak from one of the hard lines on the back of the IP - just needed tightening, but it's a PITA to get to. try turning it on, getting up above the engine and looking in under the intake manifold for leaks.
     
  5. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    I dunno, I suppose you could pinch or knock a line loose:confused: If you have it's the line that enters the filter on the top left side. There is a black knob on the top where the line enters the filter. Twist it and fuel will spurt out the filter. It's purpose is to bleed air out of the filter but leave it open and it might let air in:rolleyes:

    Your diesel fuel system is built on the idea of supplying more fuel, or fuel pressure, than the engine can use. This is for acceleration and WFO. During these times there can be a problem with fuel availability to the Injection Pump and you end up with some cylinders (sp:confused:) being "starved" for fuel until the pump catches up. The solution is to feed more than needed. There is a return line to the tank for unused fuel. The feed enters the Injection Pump at the connection in the center of the 8 distribution lines. The return comes out the top of the IP, about 6" rubber hose to a hard line that travels towards and down the front of the block. Then to the left side of the frame and runs with the feed line to the tank.

    I'm sure someone can explain this better or tell me I'm full of @&($ But it's how I understand the basics.
     
  6. savagek5diesel

    savagek5diesel 1/2 ton status

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    bkinzey has a some great info there, but like he was explaining....... there are a bunch of lines in that valley and any one could be leaking. I was able to spot mine because i put a a primer ball pump before the first fuel filter.. this allows me to 1, get air out of the lines, and 2 pressurize the lines and spot leaks without sticking my head next to that engine while its runnin. I suppose if it bothers you that much, you could go to autozone and get a leak detector kit. They are getting pretty cheap in price now, just buy the light, and the fuel additive and run the truck for a lil' bit. either way...... you got some searching to do. good luck.
     
  7. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, you're dead on... valley is awful wet (I know, sig material there :haha: ) ... and the throttle arm does look like the guilty party.

    When the weather clears up I'll tighten all the lines, though it looks like I may hafta pull the intake manifold off to get to some of them ... aargh ...but if I do hafta replace it, I donno what to do.

    Since neither the Kragens of the world, nor my local clueful place can get an IP ... what does one do to get a new one? Have this one rebuilt by a Stanadyne dealer, or ... ?

    -- A
     
  8. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ask tRustyK5...

    I recall tRustyK5 saying he bought a rebuilt injector pump and all 8 injectors for his 6.2 for about 350 bucks from Accurate Diesel online..he posted on it in the diesel forum a few times,he probably has the adresss..:crazy:
     
  9. savagek5diesel

    savagek5diesel 1/2 ton status

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    yeah, i think sending it to them (accurate diesel) is the best deal. but i remember trusty saying to somebody recently that his IP and injector rebuilds was almost 2 years ago, so i'm not sure prices will be as good as they were. but who knows, and glad to hear you found your culprit too.
     
  10. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, I gather replacing the pump is a major PITA, something about removing the timing cover, water pump, etc... grr. I love my diesel, right? :rolleyes:

    -- A
     
  11. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    it is easier if you pull the timing cover (this is the way i've done it), but it can be done with out. if i understand right, you can access the bolts thru the oil fill hole in the timing cover - just remove the fill nozzel. :)
     
  12. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Jah, the books say to do it this way, but all the people I've asked say to pull the timing cover. (And water pump, apparently. Aargh.)

    OTOH, I got the intake manifold off to check the plumbing TO the pump, so that's a small victory. Freaking metric hardware :mad:

    -- A
     
  13. savagek5diesel

    savagek5diesel 1/2 ton status

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    yeah, i had a jolly time stripping my motor down to pull the head off. the whole dang thing was stripped apart by the time i was done.
     
  14. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, all new rubber lines and clamps under the intake, and the leak seems to have stopped. Though the idiot who thought to put rubber lines in such a hard to get to place... grrr. R&R'ing the intake spider and such is not fun!

    And now the heater core popped ... I love it, the truck was running fine, but the tranny was starting to slip ... so I figgered I'd pre-emptively fix it.

    Guess she needs a LOT of fixin'.

    -- A
     
  15. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I did the IP without removing the timing cover and water pump. It was easy...

    Once the oil fill tube is removed (it just pops out) you can see the bolts you need to remove. Remove one (just don't drop it!!) and then rotate the engine until another one becomes visible. remove that one and turn the motor once more...then remove the last bolt. All that's left is to remove (and label) the lines and remove the 15 mm nuts holding the housing on.

    The drive is doweled so you don't need to worry about TDC or any of that crap.

    Rene
     

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