Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Technical Expertice Needed: Points and Condensor

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Leadfoot, Apr 2, 2002.

  1. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    My buddy bought a Fraud F150 and it has an old points style ignition. He replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, coil, wires, and plugs and it still won't fire. He says he is going to pick up a new set of points and condensor for it. I told him I would help but the last time and only time I worked on points is on an old 12HP briggs that I had on a go-kart. If I can find the spec for the gap on the points, does anybody remember how to set it (should apply to all points GM, Ford, Mopar, etc.)? TDC on #1? And how does Fraud designate there cylinders. I know GM is from front to back on driver's side (1,3,5,7) and front to back on passenger's (2,4,6,8). Also is there a common firing sequence like Chevy's 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2? and one last question does the Fraud rotor turn clockwise or counterclockwise (I know I can pull the cap and crank and watch the direction of spin, I just thought somebody might know off the top of their head)? I know this is a Chevy forum, but several on this board have previously owned them and worked on them (that is why they now drive GM), and if a Fraud is ever blocking the trail it may be good to know, plus it just shows the wealth of knowledge and expertice GM owners have /forums/images/icons/smile.gif.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2000
    Posts:
    36,164
    Likes Received:
    1,361
    Location:
    E-town baby!
    I've had a few points type distributors. The distibutor shaft should be octagonal with each high spot opening the points. To set the points make sure the arm is being opened by a high spot and use a feeler guage to maesure point gap. It's been a while but a point gap of .030" should get ya close. There is usually a hold down screw that needs to be loosened to adjust the gap. Some set-ups use a litle eccentric with a scew in the middle. Whatever method it will be apparent when you remove the cap. The condenser is cake to change...one wire IIRC.

    Ford numbers there cylinders different then chevy. The cylinder head that is furthest forward is numbered from front to back 1,2,3,4 the opposite bank is 5,6,7,8.

    Not sure on rotation...and it is easily figured out. There should also be a ballast resistor that can go bad. The points type dist does not use 12 volts at the distributor...more like 9.5 volts or something. If any of this is in-accurate just remember it's been at least 15 years since I've worked on points type distributors. My last was a dual point on a 340 dodge.

    Rene
     
  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 23, 2001
    Posts:
    3,106
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Fords, Buick, Olds, and Pontiac spin conterclockwise, or opposite of Chevy. I know Fords gap is different, but I dont know it, it not much though, I think a few thousandths difference.
     
  4. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2000
    Posts:
    3,112
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Western Massachusetts
    Thank you Rene and Dan! and anybody else who can help out.

    Since Rene mentioned the ballast resistor, does anyone know how to test one. I would assume a multimeter and should have 12V going in and less coming out?
     
  5. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2001
    Posts:
    22,059
    Likes Received:
    69
    Location:
    Pleasanton, CA.
    Almost all points distributors use a gap of .019" for new points and .016" for used points. Even better yet is to use a dwell meter, that is more accurate.
     

Share This Page