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Temporary heater core bypass/disconnect ideas?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Can Can, Jun 3, 2005.

  1. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The heater core on my 83 6.2 popped last weekend. It's new role as a farm truck doesn't require it to put out heat for the next few months, so instead of tackling the repair right away, I just want to disconnect the lines at the firewall and plug them off.

    WHat have some of you used to plug the lines off? I was thinking of using a couple of long bolts and hose clamps, but is there a better option?
     
  2. ZooMad75

    ZooMad75 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Easy, go down the the parts store and get one of those flush-n-fill "t"s that you would put in the heater hose for flushing the coolant. Pull the lines off the heater core and install the "T" between the heater hoses. (just make sure the little cap is on!). It will make a complete loop out of the heater hoses and seal up better than a bolt stuffed in and clamped with a hose clamp.

    Did this on mine when the heater core last failed and I could not install the new core for a few days. At least i stopped the leak and persistant fogging of the glass until I put the new core in.
     
  3. Boondocks

    Boondocks 1/2 ton status

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    I blew a heater hose out in the middle of nowhere once, and I just bypassed the heater core connection by looping the good hose to where the bad hose came off the engine.
     
  4. wicked87_k5

    wicked87_k5 1/2 ton status

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    I have used a 9/16 deep socket for a bypass
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I had to do that too...

    I tried "looping" the hose when mine popped on the highway,but the two hoses are different diameters(5/8 vs 3/4")...I tried putting the 3/4" hose on the 5/8 nipple,but could not get it tight enough with the clamp to stop the leak..in desparation,I ended up using my pocket knife to trim a few branches off a nearby pine tree,and made some "corks" to plug off the hose ends!--I got it home ok,drove it 150 miles that way !..

    .I've blocked off many a weepy heater core by using some cheap copper or plastic plumbing adapters from Home Depot,to splice the hoses together--they cost only a buck or two.......I keep one in the glove box now,along with a few spare clamps!(they rarely come off and go back on intact!)...I do some long trips in remote areas,so I like to be prepared for things like that..I also bring a peice of plastic pipe and clamps that fits the radiator hoses too,for the same reason--my hoses are fairly new,but you never know when one might fail.. :crazy:
     
  6. Boondocks

    Boondocks 1/2 ton status

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    Another option would be to fold the end of return hose over and put a clamp on it. The heater control valve should keep the other one sealed.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Or..

    You can do what my brother did--vise grips and a couple peices of wood!--I'm going to buy a few cheap china vise grips for uses like that!..one guy I know towed his car trailer home from NH after the trailer ball nut fell off somewhere up there by clamping his vise grips onto the trailer ball shank! (though he did have safety chains!):yikes: :yikes: --glad I wasn't behind him! :crazy:
     
  8. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I did this, worked for 4 years using that Prestone flush kit TEE fitting.
     
  9. scubahard

    scubahard Registered Member

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    Go to an Auto Parts store (Kragen where I come ) in their "Help" (brand) section and then have an adapter to go from a 3/4" to 5/8" hose. This would connect the two hoses. It is made for Chevys that have different size hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core. The one I got (used it last week) was $2.50. If you do not have a store close by, use your imagination like everyone has said. They do make a special adapter for your problem.
     
  10. RustyParts

    RustyParts 1/2 ton status

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    Just plug the end of each hose, and don't worry about looping them until repairs can be made.
     
  11. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have a 3/4"to 5/8" hose coupler looping mine. Thats all you need.
     
  12. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    There isn't a heater control valve on our rigs. The hot water is always running through the heater. I put a valve in one of the lines so I can shut it off in the summer. :cool1:
     
  13. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Thanks for all the feedback, brothers. I picked up one of those 3/4 x 5/8 brass couplings and a couple of hose clamps. It took about 28 seconds to install and works like a charm........

    I found it odd that they make a fitting like that. Do you figure that there was lots of demand for it? Is it just me or is the amount of work involved in changing out an A/C equipped heater core a little stupid. GM couldn't have just installed a door on the firewall to aid in the removal of the core?

    Was it really necessary to install a bolt BEHIND THE INNER FENDER!!!!?????? :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
     
  14. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    That's why I've been saying for years -- ALL engineers who want to design things (cars/trucks, airplanes, etc), should HAVE TO maintain similar things for a couple years. I'm convinced this would tremendously increase the "maintainability" of just about every mechanical object made.......
     
  15. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Amen!!!! My next door neighbor has a degree in Mechanical Engineering. But I have to help him fix his lawnmower and he takes his cars to the repair shop 'cause all the "experience" he has is book learnin'. :eek1:

    Every automotive engineer should be forced to work in a dealership bay for 1 year before being allowed near a CAD system. :cool1:
     
  16. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I couldn't agree more. Harry, we chatted a lot before I dissapeared from lack of internet, but as you can see, I'm moving up there. We'll have to do a trail run. I just wanted to thank you again for offering to help if anything went wrong on my way up there in the burban a few years back. BTW, I may need some when driving the burb up there in late June... Thanks again.

    Matt
     
  17. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I agree...

    Yeah,they SHOULD make the guys who "engineer" some of the vehicles that are a hore to work on fix their own creations before allowing it into production..too many cars and trucks now have assenine designs that require too many other parts to be removed,just to get at the ones that need fixing!..and NO ROOM to do it in!. :mad:

    My 95 Ford Contour is a prime example...they hide the water pump drive belt under a plastic cover,which is hidden by other plastic covers...to change even the altenator belt is a chore that would require a lift!..and since the water pump belt is so well hidden,I'm wagering its never been replaced,since the altenator belt has many small cracks in it(132,000 miles,might be original! :yikes: )..

    .the radiator hoses look original too...and the radiator itself looks like you'd have to drop it out from underneath,no unboltable "support" like I am used too...if a hose or belt fails on the road,a ramp truck will be needed to bring it to a shop with a lift,just to do "simple" repairs like that,and will be expensive,since it looks like a 2 hour job just to FIND the hoses and belts--nevermind trying to get at the clamps and other things--you need "remote control radiator hose clamp pliers" on many cars now,since there is no way to get a wrench or screwdriver near them--they use the crappy "spring" style clamps...this is progress???- :confused:

    -and you practically have to pull the motor to put a starter or altenator in it!...I pray they never go!--and I'm going to renew my AAA subscription--I might be needing it with that car!..

    I like my old GM trucks much better!--they are so easy to fix compared to the nightmares the new FWD cars are..I can put an engine in my truck faster than changing belts or hoses,or starter or altenator in my ford.. :surepal: :screwy:

    --even though the heater core replacement is a bit of a chore on a GM truck--I'd do ten of them before attempting to do one on my ford,or many other cars and trucks!--a T-bird or mustang one takes ALL DAY,and the entire dash has to come out!--I can do a GM truck one in 45 minites in most cases...yes,that one bolt behind the inner fender can be a pain!--but on many other vehicles,ALL the bolts are as bad or worse than that one--and they give you one inch of clearance to remove and install things..I think the newer vehicles suck for the most part.one thing goes wrong,you need a ramp truck,a healthy bank account,and a rental vehicle to get where you were going on time.. :mad: ..give me a pre-87 GM truck anyday.. :surepal:
     
  18. 3rdshiftdesign

    3rdshiftdesign 1/2 ton status

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    I did the ball valve type setup on mine, even before it broke. Just incase the heater core goes, I can fix the problem easily, and in the summer time I just shut it off to keep it cooler.
     

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