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th700r4 to sm465 help please

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by crash1369, Feb 3, 2006.

  1. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    i want to change my auto to a stick, the sm465 is the trans i want right? does anybody make a kit to do this, so i dont have to scroung around looking for parts.

    anyway does anybody know what transfer case i have and more importantly whats the difference? i have an 88 4x4 full size blazer.

    one last question the sm465 comes in 28 and 32 spline versions right? (not sure what the numbers are but you know what i mean) the higher number is the better one right? does anybody know if that one will be compatible with my existing parts, i have to rebuild the transfer case anyway or possibly get a new one depending on wich one i have.

    i am trying to compile a parts list so i can make sure i get everything i need if anybody has one that would be great or if they can help me with mine:

    obviously ill need the

    clutch master cly.
    clutch pedal
    linkage
    flywheel
    clutch
    misc. hardware

    anything else?

    thanks allot for all the help im sure ill get :waytogo:
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    My advice to you is to find an '85-91 C/K/R/V being parted out, and grab the entire setup.

    You could compile a list, (I'm sure a search on this board will net a few posts that list all the stuff) but if you try and piece the hydraulic setup together, it starts to get expensive, usually difficult, especially for the really hard to get pieces like pedals and bellhousing. Yes there are ways around those, now you are talking more time and effort as opposed to just finding a complete donor.

    '90-91 would require conversion to electronic speedometer, but personally I think that's a step up, plus the 241 is regarded as a better t-case than the 208 that you have now. ('89 first year of 241, right folks?) But that would keep your options open to a couple more years.

    I've picked up a couple of 465's/hydraulic setups for $50, the deals are out there if you aren't in a huge hurry and spend the time to look.
     
  3. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    thanks allot, so whats the difference in the transfer case's just more durable? anybody in the pocono area have a suggestion for someplace to go for the stuff? the only salvage yard i know of is harrys and they suck ive never been able to find anything there.
     
  4. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    i just thought of another question about the 241, is it and electronic shift or still manual? (would perfer manual)
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't know a bunch about the 208 and 241 cases, but IIRC, the 241 has a lower low range, and has a better lubrication system. It is a bolt in replacement for the 208. No difference in shifters etc that I'm aware of. I know that it is manual shift if it comes out of one of our trucks.

    I have much better luck getting deals by looking in the local classifieds, especially if you have something like the bargain trader (traderonline.com I think) which is free for people to advertise in, but costs a bit to buy. At least with the bargain trader, you can search online for free though.

    Good luck in your quest!
     
  6. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    thanks allot, ill check it out. it would be great if somebody had the whole setup and wanted to trade for mine :) but of corse that isnt going to happen i dont have that kind of luck
     
  7. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    ok well i got lucky and a guy not too far away from me said he had everything i need :) so ive got the sm465 and 205 t-case, however i didnt get the clutch master cylinder and anything. is this something i should just get new or should i find one in a truck, im also going to need a bunch of lines and stuff to right? also is there a difference between the hydrolic clutch transmissions and mechanical or can i make any hydrolic, cuz im not sure what it was originally.
     
  8. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    hellooooo, anybody there :dunno: guess this post is to old
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Was out of town, sorry. :)

    Master and slave IMO should be bought new/rebuilt. They make kits, but for the cost and time of doing the rebuild right, buying them is more cost/time effective.

    Only difference is the bellhousing, which is removable. (well, and fork, throwout bearing maybe) That's the expensive/hardest part to find, everything else can be found fairly reasonably priced.
     
  10. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    yeah i called national auto near my house they said the new clutch cylinder would be $75 so thats no problem, the fork i probably got. he gave me a bag of parts i havent got to go through yet. hwat im more worried about is if there are any little pieces i might over look or would be hard to get. are the lines to the clutch just something i can bend myself or should i buy them, also does it mater how old the trans is is there different ones for hydrolic or manual clutch? one last thing do i have to do anything with the computer to change from auto to stick? thanks again for all the help.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Small stuff...

    the only physical differences I can think of are that some bolt the bellhousing to the transmission, and some bolt the transmission to the bellhousing...some bellhousings are threaded, some transmissions are threaded. I *think* that difference is a very early production thing, as the '74 trans I used worked with the stsock hydraulic bellhousing. Other difference is the reverse light switch connector, weatherpack '85+, flat blade style previous. I suspect the switch could just be swapped out, but if you get '85+, it's a better setup.

    You can't bend up the lines as they need to flex. You need either completely rubber (I believe some have done that, but it's obviously under high pressure) or the stock style which is metal hard line with a crimped on armored section.

    465/205 combo is almost certainly going to be the older setup. Only one tons got that combo '81+, so not real common.

    You want the PROM (chip that is vehicle specific in the ECM) to come out of a manual trans rig, so it's not "looking" for the park neutral switch input telling it that the vehicle is moving. On top of that, the parameters are quite different manual trans vs. automatic, so for best operation, you'd want a manual trans PROM.
     
  12. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    thats what i figured, can i order the prom someplace for a reasonable price or should i try and get it out of another truck?
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Get one out of another truck, learn to do your own, or buy a *STOCK* one from someplace, if the cost isn't more than a couple hundred $$.

    Personally I'd never spend that much money, I'd ask someone to burn me a stock PROM for the rig for a reasonable amount of money. Unless you plan on engine mods, in which case burning your own is going to help out.
     
  14. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    anybody know where i can get that done or where i can lear to do it. i supose i just need the the hard ware to do it?
     
  15. lamberthkp

    lamberthkp SITFU Premium Member

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2006
  16. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yeah, you might as well do some reading over on thirdgen.org if you want to seriously get into it. (getting started PROM burning article over there is the best starter there is)

    If you look around though, you shouldn't have a hard time finding people that will burn stock PROM's for you, and it shouldn't cost much. Thirdgen doesn't allow "PROM begging" in the DIY PROM board, but you might be able to find some links in the TPI specific forum.
     
  17. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    thanks allot guys, i was just told i only need to do anything with the computer if i am puting in an auto not taking one out, since i am going to a manual i was told my stock computer will be fine, so is this true?
     
  18. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    No, that's not true. The load on an engine with a manual trans is different when idling, coasting, cruise, etc., which will make a difference in how it will run. I guarantee if I go pull up two .bins, one manual trans, one auto, same vehicle/engine/year, the timing tables will be different as well.

    It will likely run decently, just not as it should. Whoever said that to you is talking about the park/neutral switch for the auto trans input, which is certainly an issue going that way as well.
     
  19. lamberthkp

    lamberthkp SITFU Premium Member

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    ya my buddy put a manual in his mustang and did not reprogram ,everytime he stoped to idle it would die for some reason till he burnt a new chip.
     
  20. crash1369

    crash1369 1/2 ton status

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    thats what i thought, thanks
     

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