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THat thing about blending in clear with the base color

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by Pookster, Oct 29, 2004.

  1. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    On another thread, one of you stated that to add a deeper rich finish you can blend in amounts of clear with the base.

    What I was wondering was, if after two coats of my DRU, and I was going to switch to clear- Can I skip cleaning the gun out, and just pour in the clear and mix? Or would the results be diasterous?

    The other thing was, what do you do with the paint cleaning solvents after your done using it? Pour it down the drain?
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    its not worth bothering just dumping the clear in... i'm also assuming this isn't base/clear, and is a single stage. the amount of color pigments your adding to that cup of clear will be negligable. it may actually cause a slight issue if your using more than a cup per coat...

    i usually do 2 or 3 coats of color mixed with clear. after a few coats for good coverage start adding clear. first coat at 25% clear, than 50%, than straight clear or 75%.

    if i'm not going for a clear blend, i'll just run some quick thinner thru the gun before clear... as far as waste, please don't pour it down the drain /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    take an empty can ( i use empty 5 gal thinner cans or gals) and just pour it in there. let it sit for a few weeks with the top off and the solvents will evaporate and leave mostly solids. cap it and dumpster it...
     
  3. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    it is base clear, Im concerned with any of the reactants of the DRU base with the clear, as somehow they work together?

    BTW, Im still waiting on a day I can come down with beer and pizza. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  4. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    oh, i didn't realize you where talking basecoat/clear.. that procedure i talked about is definitely for single stage..

    the only time i add basecoat to the clearcoats is on fancy pearl jobs... but dont add base to the clear, it wont do anything for you. give the gun a quick rinse before clear.

    but they are compatible. it wouldn't freak out or anything. like i said, i add pearl to clear on occasion and pearl is a basecoat...

    make sure you give that base a light tack rag (blue ones are for base, not as sticky) before you clear...

    have fun, i hope it turns out killer for ya... /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  5. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Back in the lacquer days...that used to add depth to the finish...

    Now..with urathanes..You can have LIFTING and create a mess.

    You could add binding clear to the paint...
    but that will cause poor hiding.

    With High-solid clears...apply an extra coat of clear..
    You'll have plenty of depth. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    You can have LIFTING and create a mess.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    i've done it for years with Glasurit and Imron and never had an issue. i know very few tech sheets talk about the process, but we always had good luck with it.. have you actually seen a prob come up?

    its rare that i do it these days, too much trouble... gotta have a sweet booth for jobs like that... dust kills em... and i definitely wouldn't recommend it for beginners..
     
  7. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i've done it for years with Glasurit and Imron and never had an issue. i know very few tech sheets talk about the process, but we always had good luck with it.. have you actually seen a prob come up?


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sure...with PPG's DBU...
    And I think that's the product he's using.. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    DBU...is different from any paint product on the market..
    because of the catalyst...in the reducer.
    It's much more aggressive.

    DBU is some moody stuff...
    I use DBC now...it's more like Glasurit or Sikens..basecoat.

    [ QUOTE ]
    its rare that i do it these days, too much trouble... gotta have a sweet booth for jobs like that... dust kills em... and i definitely wouldn't recommend it for beginners..


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yah....I'd hate to see'm...stripping the paint...and starting ALL over. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
     
  8. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    hmmm, yeah, i remember that stuff now.. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    the hardener in the reducer thing probably scared me away from it...

    i'm kinda partial to Glasurit, use it whenever i can... tho these days, i'm gelcoating 75% of the time... /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     
  9. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    hmmm, yeah, i remember that stuff now..

    the hardener in the reducer thing probably scared me away from it...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    DBU is OLD technology...actually...it came out in 88'. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
    The original BDC metalic colors...would zebra easy..when applying clear...
    So..PPG...came out with DBU..to stop that.
    But about 7 years ago...PPG...re-introduced DBC...
    And that stuff is sweet!!!

    [ QUOTE ]
    these days, i'm gelcoating 75% of the time...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    LOL...I haven't touched gel-coat in at least 10 years..
    I'm sure that stuff is alot better to work with...compaired to the stuff I was using..during the 80's. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     

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