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thermostat question.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by smokkey1, Jul 2, 2004.

  1. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    ok so my water pump went last week so we finally got around to changing today. so we figured to change out the thermostat well were at it. And to my surpise there wasn't one /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif so it's that something that could of messed up the engine. btw we got the sub on nov 03' and it's been ruuning perfect since we had it.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Must be nice to live in L.A. and never need heat.
     
  3. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    Depends on what you mean by your engine being messed up.

    Not likely that your lack of thermostat messed up your engine. The water pump could have though. When you replace the pump make sure you install a new thermostat. Check with the dealer or someone on the temp. you need.

    Someone may have removed the thermostat because of overheating issues. Not a good idea. If engine is running hot it could be timing, clearences etc. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  4. highrider_44s

    highrider_44s 1/2 ton status

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    having no thermostat wouldn't hurt the motor.
    i think the averge temp for a small block chev is about
    160-180 /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif if i remember right /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    i see that stuff constantly on the boats. with raw water cooling from the sea, they'll run at 120* all day usually... not exactly what GM designed those motors to run at. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The only ill effect I can see from no thermostat would be fouled spark plugs.

    Well, and overheating. Not all engines will over cool without a thermostat.
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Tim's right--many times removing the thermostat makes it run hotter because the water will rush through the radiator too fast,not staying in it long enough to cool off.In colder climates the motor wont get up to temperature quickly enough,if at all--leads to sludge and condensation in the crankcase,and crankcase dilution from unburned fuel passing the rings--and most chevy's are cold blooded,meaning they run like crap until they reach normal operating temparature.I've run a 195 degree thermostat year round(like GM reccomends)and never had an overheating issue,at least due to the thermostat.In the winter I also block off some of the radiator with cardboard so I wont turn blue on short trips--helps the motor warm up faster and avoids the crankcase dilution problems. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    That '90 in your sig should have a 195 degree thermostat in it.

    If the radiator was not taken care of, then the cross tubes will be full of corrosion and hard water deposits. Someone may have pulled the t-stat just to keep it from running too hot during "the sale". /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif If the radiator is clogged, it costs about the same for a new radiator as it costs to have the old one cleaned out. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Guess which route I would recommend? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]

    The only ill effect I can see from no thermostat would be fouled spark plugs.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I still firmly believe that differences than what GM recommends for engine operating temp, screws with the tolerances designed into the engine.

    The clearances you deal with (piston to bore, bearing, etc) are already quite precise, that 70* may make a goodly difference in those measurements. Just like piston slap in some cold engines.

    Oh yeah, forgot, the hotter the engine gets, the less likely you are to get condensation in the engine, which can contaminate the oil/help "create" acid in the crankcase.
     
  10. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    thanks guys, I installed a *195 stat ran it all day yesterday, and didn't get that hot the gauge ran between *200-*210. hopefully it doesn't t have an overheating problem, I guess I'll have to wait till it warms up a bit. the past month it's been in the lower *70's and sun wont pop out untill the 1 pm or so it's supose to be the upper *80 this weekend. so I guess I'll have to wait an see.
     
  11. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    210 seems hot for such a cool ambient temp.
     
  12. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    true. should have mentioned I was on the 110 freeway in traffic for 45 minutes. also I drained the raditor and was real clean.
     
  13. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe your gauge is off a bit? Do you have stock gauges?

    I have a 1973 Chevy K/10 Longbed with a 180 thermostat. Hottest I have seen it is 200. I have autometer 2 5/8" gauges, so im hoping that they are fairly accurate.

    Also, sometimes the radiator can still have blockage and the coolant be clean. especially if it has been recently serviced. Do you have a clutch-fan or flex fan? /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  14. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    The gauges are stock and not accurate, so I don't trust them at all /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif and It's a clutch fan.
     
  15. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    I replaced my cluth fan with a Flex-lite fan and it cools much better at low rpm's and about the same as clutch fan at higher rpm's.

    Also, as I'm sure you know, the fan shroud is very important as well as the size of fan in relation to the shroud. Fan distance placement is also important. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     

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