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things to look for when buying

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Calclips, Feb 21, 2002.

  1. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Swartz Creek, Michigan/Flint while in school
    Ok... a guy in town has put up a truck that I've always admired for years when it sat in his driveway. Its a 1982 K20 Camper Special 4wd. It has a 14 bolt rear end not sure if its FF) Dana 44 front, interior is BRAND SPANKING NEW, 6 inch lift, pro comp shocks, solid body, "new" 210HP 350 edelbrock crate motor (not sure on motor milage), "rebuilt" TH400, and a "rebuilt" 208. It looks like the front axel is leaking something our arround right where the driveshaft connects to it. I just wanna know of a few things that I should check out or have checked out before I make the decision on weather or not to buy it. He was asking arround 3k for it. I know a little bit about the previous owner of it... and I'm told he isn't very nice to vehicles that he has owned... but I haven't seen this thing move in years. I test drove it once and it felt like it needed a front end alignment. Oh yeah, it does have the drop down pitman arm on it, and the lift is all suspension.
     
  2. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like a descent deal to me. Uh 14 bolt...TH400...low gear 208 (notthe best but pretty good) and new motor...go for it!

    Alot of the hard work has already been done to it...just make sure the frame is in good condition and not alot of rust...it also depends on what you can do yourself to save money....

    later

    Surfing is Life...
     
  3. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

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    as far as equipment... I know it has great potential. What are some things that I can check for signs of major wear or imminent failure that would make purchasing of this truck a bad idea? How do I check balljoints, and things of that nature?
     
  4. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

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    Where are good places to check for frame stress other than arround the steering box? Also, living in Michigan this truck probably only saw mud. What other problems can be caused by long exposure to mud that I can look for?
     
  5. txbluethunder

    txbluethunder 1/2 ton status

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    take a big magnet with you...it'll let you know whether thats metal or bondo under the paint...also bang on the quarter panels a bit...rust sounds more hollow than steel.

    1986 K5 Blazer
    Tired Stock 305/700R4/3.08
    F:2.5" Procomp Springs/RS9000
    R:1.5" Procomp Leaf/2" Procomp Block/RS9000
    Working on getting 33's
     
  6. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=blue> Check REAL good around the tailpan and near the cab corners on the inside. Usually a great place for rot ! Also, check the seals around the windsheild ...if that is shot you will probably have rot in the front floorboards by the feet. Throw it into reverse and then forward a few times, is there any clunk in the rear ..... if so, it will need u-joints. If it's got automatic hubs, plan on changing them to manuals like WARN premiums BEFORE it happens when you're out somewhere. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, if I come up with more I'll post again.

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>

    <font color=purple> monkeys steal my underwear at night
     

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