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This is driving me nutz! (NOT TBI believe it or not) UPDATED

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Wingnutt, Mar 9, 2004.

  1. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    Last year I had my springs re-arched (to cure the saggy rear syndrome) and have had a nasty viberation since. The shop installed angle blocks even though they only ended up raising the rear of the vehicle about 1" from factory height.

    My question is this: should they have installed the blocks so that they rotated the differential down? Or should they have even installed the blocks at all? Or should they have been installed so that they rotate the differential upwards?

    I have time to remove them tonite if I can get a definitive answer quickly. Once again, TIA.



    Well the wedges are out, and not much differance. The viberation is much worse between 25 & 35 mph under light acceleration, minumal under hard acceleration. The 60 mph viberation is less but still there. If I hadn't just replaced all of the u-joints in the rear axel Sunday I would swear I had a bad u-joint.

    Somebody please tell me that my ring & pinion wouldn't cause this, 'cause that's the only thing else that I can think of. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Re: This is driving me nutz! (NOT TBI believe it or not)

    Without some sort of suspension lift in the rear, you really don't need any angled blocks.

    The shop probably measured the angles and put in a block accordingly. When you install lift springs, the wedge is supposed to be installed to point the differential up (thick part of the wedge towards the rear of the vehicle). This may not be the case for your re-arched springs, though...it all depends on the angles.

    Personally, I'd take out the wedge blocks and try it. With simply re-arched springs, you shouldn't need them.
     
  3. Tweetysuarus

    Tweetysuarus 1/2 ton status

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    Re: This is driving me nutz! (NOT TBI believe it or not)

    You need to measure the angles of you drive shaft and see if they are within I think it is 2* of each other.
    Bill
     
  4. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    Re: This is driving me nutz! (NOT TBI believe it or not)

    Just checked and the thick part of the wedge is towards the rear, but they look like they have a pretty good angle on them. The look like they are about 5/8" to 3/4" thick on the backside. Thanks again, and it's off the the garage for the evening.
     
  5. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    Re: This is driving me nutz! (NOT TBI believe it or not)

    Anybody want to take a stab at this? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  6. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    they could have the pinion rotated too much, like is ----\ the straight lines are the d-shaft and the backslash is the pinion instead of having a less severe issue. Take em out. If it gets better but you still have a slight one, just drop the t-case w/ the factory spacers.
     
  7. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    The wedges are out, and not much differance. The viberation is much worse between 25 & 35 mph under light acceleration, minumal under hard acceleration. The 60 mph viberation is less but still there. If I hadn't just replaced all of the u-joints in the rear axel Sunday I would swear I had a bad u-joint.

    BUT this morning it was better?!?!? It seemed to viberate more accelerating around a turn than in a straight line. On the way to work, the viberation came and went so at this point I'm clueless.

    Somebody please tell me that my ring & pinion wouldn't cause this, 'cause that's the only thing else that I can think of.
     
  8. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    If your driveshaft has a slip yoke and you pulled it apart its possible that you didnt get it back together the same way. Some slip yokes have a wide "tooth" so they will only go together one way. At least make sure that the yokes are all the same......if that makes sense.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yeah, thats making sure the driveshaft is "phased". When assembled, the u-joint caps should be aligned at both ends, not offset.
     
  10. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    No slip yoke on the shaft, so the u-joints are aligned. Aslo I didn't notice that any of the balance weights had come off the shaft. This is getting aggrevating to say the least.
     
  11. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    Anybody else?
     
  12. Tweetysuarus

    Tweetysuarus 1/2 ton status

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    What are the measurement of the drivline angles in degrees at each end?
    Bill
     
  13. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, what sized shims did you remove? if your using a slip yolk type on a 208/241, they seem to be damn picky about their angles. After my lift, no matter what I did, I could not get rid of the vibe. I had to go to a CV style.

    however, in your case, you dont have a lift- The only qeustion is, when they arched your spring, they might have arched it slightly differently than it was stock- If the wedge is inserted from the rear, that means that they were trying to rotate the pinion up.- this seems rather odd, as unless you are using a CV style, to phase out, if anything, might have been down. (dunno without seeing). Anyways, try to take a pic of everything and show us.. maybe we can figure it out?
     

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