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This is how you can temp-fix a broken key cylinder...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by colbystephens, Jan 3, 2007.

  1. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    as well as hotwiring your wiper blades.

    well, on monday morning, 10 minutes before i was supposed to take my wife's family on a ski trip 3 hours from portland, i turned the key in my steering column and it broke. the switch just flops back and forth in the column and does absolutely nothing. since i have a manual tranny, i tried compression starting it, but the issue was such that the truck didn't know the key was in the "on" position, and thus it wouldn't allow fuel to be supplied to the engine.

    here's how we temp-fixed it. i need to clean it up quite a bit. don't know how much of this is applicable to gas engines, but for my 6.2 diesel it works great.

    ck5 member, Makovai, came over and we ran a couple 16 or 14 guage wires (can't remember) from the starter solenoid to a new keyed switch.

    here it is, hanging from my dash. i have the colors of wire mixed up, such that one of the reds should be the purple wire...
    [​IMG]

    then, on the front of the injection pump there is a pink wire which is the cut off for fuel delivery to the engine. this needs power for the engine to run, so we ran this to the keyed switch too - it is another one of the red wires. like said before, i'll be cleaning this up a bit. :D

    ofcourse, if you don't have a switch, you could attatch those wires and manually touch them together to turn the starter, but you'd have to get power to that pink wire somehow - maybe clipping it directly to a positive battery terminal. to shut off the engine, you would disconnect that pink wire.

    now, that gives you a running engine only. no blinkers, no climate control fan, no windshield wipers and no guages (unless you have a mechanical speedo, like myself. you do have your head lights, brake lights, dash lights, and marker lights, as well as your alternator in an operable condition.

    ok, so we drove over to sunriver no problem. put rain-x on the windshield and did fine. then we needed to go up to the mountain. i didn't know if the rain-x would cut it with the snow, so the hotel we're staying at was generous enough to give me a couple wires with aligator clips on each end so i could try to hotwire my wiper motor if need be.

    as it happens, rain-x does not work for snow. i compensated by sticking a big brush out the window while driving and wiping my window down, but that really sucked and didn't work so well. next, i put on some ski-goggles and stuck my head out the window, which really sucked because it was cold and i had no idea how close i was to the passenger side snow-bank and edge of road. <<THESE METHODS ARE NOT RECOMENDED>>

    while on the mountain it snowed 10" in a matter of 4 or 5 hours! :eek1: And it wasn't stopping. i didn't want to do what i had done again, so i decided to try to hotwire my wipers... here's what i figured out.

    i had to cut my wiring harness to make this work because i couldn't get a clean connection using just the aligator clips on the wiper motor itself. run the yellow wire to a ground. for me, a good ground was clipping it to my hood as shown in the first picture. then run the purple wire to a power source. this will allot you one speed: FAST. i believe the other wire is used to control the different speeds on the wiper motor. for me, this meant connecting it using the wiring i have for my auxilary head lights, and thus i had a switch in the cab. however, it could just be run over to the hot terminal on the glow plug controller, but to turn off your wipers you'd have to get out and un-clip it all the time, which would be frustrating, but workable.

    hope that's helpful to someone. :doah:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

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    Why not just go into the column (through where the wiper stalk goes through) and move the linkage that operates the ignition switch? Or just unbolt the ignition switch and use it manually.

    That would be much better than running those wires with no fuse protection.
     
  3. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    x2... if you pull the cylinder itself you can use a pair of pliers...

    Ask me how i know... ive been using a pair in my jeep for 8 months:crazy:
     
  4. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

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    just drill a hole and a plate and put it inside the cig lighter thingy..

    use a extra dimmer switch as a fuel kill or ign kill
     
  5. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    b/c i couldn't figure out how to remove the key cylinder and my wipers are not on the column, so i wouldn't be able to access the column that way anyway.. :( i also had very limited time to figure stuff out. :) i like the idea of putting it in the cig lighter. i'm thinking to relocate everything to my ammo-can center consoles w/ a lock to make my truck real secure. :D
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    You don't need to remove it until you get home . The switch is on top of the column , the rod going to switch can be moved by hand with a pair of needle nose .

    When youget home , rent a lockplate removal tool , remove steering wheel , remove lockplate , and you will see what holds the lock in behind the electrical switch . If you still have a functioning key in buzzer , you can disable it there too :thumb:
     
  7. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    really don't know what that means. i found a switch on the top of the column at the firewall, and as i moved the switch, nothing happened. don't know if that's the right one. anyway, this is a quick/easy fix for people who don't know what they're doing, like myself. :)

    got pics of what you're talking about? really don't know anything about electrical, tho i'm being forced to learn. :D
     

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