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Tie rod end

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CK5, Oct 17, 2002.

  1. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I need to know, what is the strongest right hand tie-rod end with a 7/8" GM taper I believe. Anyone have part numbers etc..
     
  2. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

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    If I get time today (yeah right) I will call Sunray and ask them what they used on mine. Don't remember the part #'s.
     
  3. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Cool, I need one with the same shank as a ES2026 drag link end.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Do you need the high miss-alignment of a DLE? The DLE also has the larger pin. The GM ES2234R is the strongest right hand thread TRE that I know of. The long GM ES2233L has a stabilizer hole so I used the Dodge ES2010L which is stronger. Doubt that helps but...
     
  5. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    What application is the GM ES2234R from? Do you know if it has the same shank as the ES2026 DRE? The high miss-alignment is helpful to clear the springs but I should still have enough room for a TRE.
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    80's GM D60 TRE, it's what fits mine, not sure on the exact range. And yes, they have the same threads. Only diff is that DLEs have a larger pin. For instance, my ES2026R on my drag link will not fit all the way down in my Avalanche arms but my ES2234R will... However, the DLE does seat far enough that I haven’t made a concerted effort to modify the hole…
     
  7. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Hmmm, the AE (DLE) arms are made for the 2026 with the larger shank/pin, I think they sit up higher due to their design which looks like this:
    / \
    \ /

    Does the ES2234R fir snug in the AE arm? Also, this end doesn't have the long cast part correct?
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    No, my DLE will not fit down fully into the AE arm. The rubber boot lacks about 0.125" pulling down on the arm and the nut does not go down quite far enough to get a pin into it. IIRC, the 2234R on my tie rod fit fine when I tried it.

    Hmmm, makes me wonder if that part number actually matches my DLEs... I am still running the DLEs that came with my truck (they were not very old) but I was told that the 2026R and 2027L were the part numbers for early 80s K30s. Since I have not bought the parts using those number, I suppose they could be for something else, but I don't think so. Anyone have a parts book to cross reference the numbers?
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Oh yeah, both 2010L and ES2234R have threads that go almost up to the ball cup...
     
  10. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    No, my DLE will not fit down fully into the AE arm.

    [/ QUOTE ] Yeah, that's what I mean, I think that is due to the reverse hour glass shape of the shank (not sure if that is the proper term).
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I was told that the 2026R and 2027L were the part numbers for early 80s K30s

    [/ QUOTE ]
    That is correct.
     
  11. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Oh yeah, both 2010L and ES2234R have threads that go almost up to the ball cup...

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Cool, I will check it out.
     
  12. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Called Sunray and they couldn't find the part # for the HD TRE's on mine, but they use ES2011R's on most everything. That is the large shank GM/Dodge D60 taper model from the late 80's. Don't know of too many people that have broke these ends. Plus they are about $25 at Napa. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif On my steering system, we used all right hand taper ends to make it where I only need one spare. When you design the arms, factor in the fact that the more you screw in the TRE, the stronger it is. Make the arms where there are only about 3-4 threads visible on the arms when the toe is adjusted. This should stop your problem of breaking the POS drag link ends. I haven't broke any of mine yet, and with my luck, if it is possible to break, it will break with me. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  13. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I think Brian's got the right idea. Your setup looks like it has too much thread on the ends showing. Get a rock rod that's 3.5-4 inches longer and there would be very little of the threads showing. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Get the ends of the rock rod out as far towards the end of the threaded part as possible and it should make for a very strong setup. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I know, I know that's how I had it in the first place but somehow ended up with a Jeep setup. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Don't ask
     
  15. keith

    keith 1/2 ton status

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    I use the TRE ES2010L/2234R
    Draglink ES 2027/ 2026R
    I got this from Scott and love the setup. The draglink is the stock K30 ones. I took my old ones from the CUCV and got new spicer lifetimes as spares.
     
  16. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    Draglink ES 2027/ 2026R
    all chev draglinks are those numbers IIRC not just 1 tons
     
  17. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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  18. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    somehow ended up with a Jeep setup

    [/ QUOTE ] WHAT?!?!?!? HEEP parts on the UAV???? That's blasphemous!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    Unless you can find some ends that are made of unobtanium, I don't think anything less than getting a longer rock rod is going to solve the problem. When that hydraulic ram starts pushing one of those 39.5's against a rock the size of a house, something has to give. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Obviously with as much thread as you have showing, the end is bending long before the UAV gets pushed sideways. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
     
  19. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    /\
    \/

    is to allow higher misalignment

    where are you breaking them? poping the ball out of socket or ??

    you will have to get a MOOG or Spicer book to read spec sizes,
    IIRC the 2026 and 2027 are larger then any of the tie rod end parts
     
  20. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Right, which I need to clear the spring perch without a spacer. The top one is from "Rusty Nail" the bottom one from "Independance".
    It appears that the tierod is not quite long enough but if I am going to make a new one anyway I would rather use a stronger shorter tie rod end this time.

    [​IMG]
     

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