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timing & vac. adv. 101 TECH POST...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 58 apache, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. 58 apache

    58 apache 1/2 ton status

    Aug 26, 2006
    Likes Received:
    clarksville,Va home of the body bag
    when i was building the 406 i came across this tech post on a hot rod forum and thought it might help some of you........:D


    The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such
    as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich
    mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust
    gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit"
    earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more
    burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for
    peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion
    energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean
    mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression
    cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is
    still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture,
    for maximum efficiency.

    The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing
    purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or
    operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which
    it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam
    mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined
    with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees
    at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely
    nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is
    opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum
    advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing"

    At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire
    that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder
    pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to
    manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later)
    is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of
    spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if
    your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25
    degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at
    steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn,
    the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the
    vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up
    so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd
    see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from
    the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at
    steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at

    When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the
    accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the
    additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold
    vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the
    spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus
    the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm;
    the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the
    gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state
    cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean.

    The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor
    autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing
    changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand,
    responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions,
    providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time
    based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture
    conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical
    system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle
    response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect
    on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative
    under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized
    engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both
    mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even
    HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic.

    Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum
    aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full
    manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before
    catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of
    crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons
    and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids
    was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the
    carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed
    to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it
    saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance
    was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum
    value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing
    (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees
    AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature
    (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the
    "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust
    manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like
    crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred
    through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run
    hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up,
    combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down
    with it.

    If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported
    spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20
    degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the
    distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing"
    at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The
    vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean
    mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused
    all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-
    converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.

    What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet
    "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs?
    They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them
    because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" -
    they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full
    load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum
    advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered
    in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without
    manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle
    response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they
    don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's
    for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't
    understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so
    they're not alone.

    Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and
    modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have
    relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans
    aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15" Hg. Manifold vacuum, so
    those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than
    15" Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will "dither" in and out in
    response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying
    the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified
    engines with more cam that generate less than 15" Hg. of vacuum at idle
    need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1", preferably
    2" of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and
    stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides
    the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-
    deployed at only 8" of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing
    even with a stout cam.

    For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency
    in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full
    manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's
    about it – they don’t understand it, they're on commission, and they
    want to sell "race car" parts.



    Vacuum Advance Cans Part1


    Distributor Vacuum Advance Control units
    Specs and facts for GM Distributors

    The vacuum advance control unit on the distributor is intended to
    advance the ignition timing above and beyond the limits of the
    mechanical advance (mechanical advance consists of the initial timing
    plus the centrifugal advance that the distributor adds as rpm comes up)
    under light to medium throttle settings. When the load on the engine is
    light or moderate, the timing can be advanced to improve fuel economy
    and throttle response. Once the engine load increases, this "over-
    advance" condition must be eliminated to produce peak power and to
    eliminate the possibility of detonation ("engine knock"). A control
    unit that responds to engine vacuum performs this job remarkably well.

    Most GM V8 engines (not including "fast-burn" style heads), and
    specifically Chevys, will produce peak torque and power at wide open
    throttle with a total timing advance of 36 degrees (some will take 38).
    Also, a GM V8 engine, under light load and steady-state cruise, will
    accept a maximum timing advance of about 52 degrees. Some will take up
    to 54 degrees advance under these conditions. Once you advance the
    timing beyond this, the engine/car will start to "chug" or "jerk" at
    cruise due to the over-advanced timing condition. Anything less than 52
    degrees produces less than optimum fuel economy at cruise speed.

    The additional timing produced by the vacuum advance control unit must
    be tailored and matched to the engine and the distributor’s mechanical
    advance curve. The following considerations must be made when selecting
    a vacuum advance spec:

    How much engine vacuum is produced at cruise? If max vacuum at cruise,
    on a car with a radical cam, is only 15 inches Hg, a vacuum advance
    control unit that needs 18 inches to peg out would be a poor selection.

    How much centrifugal advance ("total timing") is in effect at cruise
    rpm? If the distributor has very stiff centrifugal advance springs in
    it that allow maximum timing to only come in near red-line rpm, the
    vacuum advance control unit can be allowed to pull in more advance
    without the risk of exceeding the 52-degree maximum limit. If the
    engine has an advance curve that allows a full 36-degree mechanical
    advance at cruise rpm, the vacuum advance unit can only be allowed to
    pull in 16 more degrees of advance.

    Are you using "ported" or "manifold" vacuum to the distributor?
    "Ported" vacuum allows little or no vacuum to the distributor at idle.
    "Manifold" vacuum allows actual manifold vacuum to the distributor at
    all times.

    Does your engine require additional timing advance at idle in order to
    idle properly? Radical cams will often require over 16 degrees of
    timing advance at idle in order to produce acceptable idle
    characteristics. If all of this initial advance is created by advancing
    the mechanical timing, the total mechanical advance may exceed the 36-
    degree limit by a significant margin. An appropriately selected vacuum
    advance unit, plugged into manifold vacuum, can provide the needed
    extra timing at idle to allow a fair idle, while maintaining maximum
    mechanical timing at 36. A tuning note on this: If you choose to run
    straight manifold vacuum to your vacuum advance in order to gain the
    additional timing advance at idle, you must select a vacuum advance
    control unit that pulls in all of the advance at a vacuum level 2"
    below (numerically less than) the manifold vacuum present at idle. If
    the vacuum advance control unit is not fully pulled in at idle, it will
    be somewhere in its mid-range, and it will fluctuate and vary the
    timing while the engine is idling. This will cause erratic timing with
    associated unstable idle rpm. A second tuning note on this: Advancing
    the timing at idle can assist in lowering engine temperatures. If you
    have an overheating problem at idle, and you have verified proper
    operation of your cooling system components, you can try running
    manifold vacuum to an appropriately selected vacuum advance unit as
    noted above. This will lower engine temps, but it will also increase
    hydrocarbon emissions on emission-controlled vehicles.

    Thus, we see that there are many variables in the selection of an
    appropriate control unit. Yet, we should keep in mind that the control
    unit is somewhat of a "finesse" or "final tuning" aid to obtain a
    final, refined state of tune; we use it to just "tweak" the car a
    little bit to provide that last little bit of optimization for
    drivability and economy. The vacuum advance unit is not used for
    primary tuning, nor does it have an effect on power or performance at
    wide open throttle.

    With these general (and a little bit vague, I know…) concepts in mind,
    let’s review a few concepts and terms. Then it’s on to the master
    listing of specs and parts…..:

    Part Number
    There are many different sources for these control units. Borg Warner,
    Echlin, Wells, and others all sell them in their own boxes and with
    their own part numbers. Actually, there are very few manufacturers of
    the actual units: Dana Engine Controls in Connecticut manufactures the
    units for all three of the brands just mentioned, so it doesn’t make
    much difference who you buy from: They’re made by the same
    manufacturer. The part numbers I have listed here are the NAPA/Echlin
    part numbers, simply because they are available in any part of the

    Every vacuum advance control unit built by Dana, and sold under
    virtually any brand name (including GM), has a stamped ID number right
    on top of the mounting plate extension. This ID, cross referenced
    below, will give you all specifications for the unit. So now, when you’
    re shopping in a junkyard, you’ll be able to quickly identify the
    "good" vs. the "bad" control units.

    Starts @ "Hg
    Vacuum is measured in "inches of Mercury." Mercury has the chemical
    symbol "Hg." Thus, manifold vacuum is measured and referred to as "Hg.
    The "Start" spec for the control unit is a range of the minimum vacuum
    required to get the control unit to just barely start moving. When
    selecting this specification, consideration should be made to the
    amount of vacuum that a given engine produces, and what the load is on
    the engine at this specification. For example, an engine with a very
    radical cam may be under very light load at 7 inches Hg, and can
    tolerate a little vacuum advance at this load level. Your mom’s
    Caprice, on the other hand, has such a mild cam that you don’t want the
    vacuum to start coming in until 9 – 10 inches Hg. For most street
    driven vehicle performance applications, starting the vacuum advance at
    about 8" Hg produces good results.

    Max Advance
    Since the vacuum advance control unit is a part of the distributor,
    the number of degrees of vacuum advance is specified in DISTRIBUTOR
    degrees – NOT crankshaft degrees. When talking about these control
    units, it is important that you know whether the person you’re talking
    to is referring to the distributor degrees, or if he’s talking
    crankshaft degrees. All of the listings shown in the following chart,
    and in any shop manual & technical spec sheet, will refer to
    distributor degrees of vacuum advance. You must DOUBLE this number to
    obtain crankshaft degrees (which is what you "see" with your timing
    light). Thus, a vacuum advance control unit with 8 degrees of maximum
    advance produces 16 degrees of ignition advance in relationship to the
    crankshaft. When selecting a unit for max advance spec, the total
    centrifugal timing at cruise must be considered. Thus, a car set up to
    produce 36 degrees of total mechanical advance at 2500 rpm needs a
    vacuum advance control unit producing 16 degrees of crankshaft advance.
    This would be an 8-degree vacuum advance control unit.

    Max Advance @ "Hg
    This is the range of manifold vacuum at which the maximum vacuum
    advance is pegged out. In selecting this specification, you must
    consider the vacuum produced at cruise speed and light throttle
    application. If your engine never produces 20" Hg, you better not
    select a control unit requiring 21" Hg to work.

    The following listing (Non-HEI) is as follows: The first two part
    number listings are the two numbers that are most commonly used in a
    Chevrolet performance application. The "B1" can is the most versatile
    and user-friendly unit for a good performance street engine. As you can
    see, it was selected by GM for use in most high performance engines due
    to its ideal specs. The "B28" can was used on fuel injected engines and
    a few select engines that produced very poor vacuum at idle. The
    advance comes in very quick on this unit – too quick for many
    performance engines. Do not use this very quick unit unless you have a
    cam/engine combination that really needs an advance like this. It can
    be used as a tuning aid for problem engines that do not respond well to
    other timing combinations, and can be successfully used in applications
    where direct manifold vacuum is applied to the can (see paragraph and
    discussion on this above)

    After this, the listing is by Echlin part number. The Chevrolet
    applications are listed first by application, followed by a complete
    listing of all of the units used on any GM product (all GM units are
    interchangeable, so you can use a Cadillac or GMC Truck unit on your
    Vette, if that’s what you want to do).

    Go to part 2 to see the part numbers.
    I'm sittin' here on the Group W bench....
    Visit my new website: http://www.shibumi.org/eoti.htm

    Mike Goble
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    #3 20th-January-2005, 11:12 AM
    Mike Goble
    Moderator Join Date: Feb 2004
    Location: Fairfield, CA
    Posts: 2,632

    Vacuum Advance Cans Part2


    Non-HEI Distributors:

    P/N ID# Application Starts @ "Hg Max Adv
    (Distr. Degrees @ "Hg.)

    VC680 B1 1959 – 63 All Chevrolet 8-11 8 @ 16-18
    1964 Corvette exc. FI
    1964 Impala, Chevy II
    1965 396 High Perf.
    1965-67 283, 409
    1966-68 327 exc. Powerglide
    1967-68 All 396
    1969 Corvette 427 High Perf.
    1969 396 Exc. High Perf.
    1969 Corvette 350 TI
    1969-70 302 Camaro
    1970 400 4-bbl
    1970 396 High Perf.
    1970 Corvette 350 High Perf.
    1973-74 454 Exc. HEI

    VC1810 B28 1965 409 High Perf. 3-5 8 @ 5.75-8
    1965 327 High Perf.
    1966 327 High Perf.
    1964-67 Corvette High Perf. FI


    VC1605 B9 1965 impala 396 Exc. High Perf. 7-9 10.3 @ 16-18
    1965 327 All Exc. FI
    1969 327 Camaro, Chevelle, Impala
    1969-70 Corvette 350 Exc. High Perf.
    1969-70 350 4-bbl Premium Fuel
    1970 350 Camaro, Chevelle, Impala High Perf.
    1971-72 350 2-bbl AT
    1971-72 307 All

    VC1675 B13 1968 327 Camaro Powerglide 9-11 8 @ 16-18
    1968 327 Impala AT
    1968 307 AT
    1968 302, 307, 327, 350 Camaro, Chevy II
    1970 350 Camaro, Chevelle Exc. High Perf.

    VC1760 B19 1969 350 Camaro, Chevelle, Impala 4-bbl 5.5-8 12 @ 14-18
    1969-70 350 2-bbl

    VC1765 B20 1965 396 Impala High Perf 5-7 8 @ 11-13
    1966-67 Corvette Exc. High Perf.
    1966-67 Impala 427 Exc. High Perf.
    1966-68 327 Powerglide Exc. High Perf.
    1969 307 All
    1969-70 396, 427 Camaro, Chevelle High Perf.
    1970 400 2-bbl
    1970 307 MT
    1973 Camaro 350 High Perf.

    VC1801 B21 1971 350 2-bbl 7-9 10 @ 16-18
    1971-72 400, 402
    1971-72 307 AT

    VC1802 B22 1971-72 350 4-bbl 7-9 8 @ 14-16

    Other Part Numbers & Specs:

    VC700 B3 8-10 11.5 @ 19-21
    VC1415 M1 6-8 10 @ 13-15
    VC1420 M2 5-7 11 @ 16-17
    VC1650 B12 8-10 10 @ 15-17
    VC1725 B18 8-10 12 @ 13-16
    VC1740 A5 6-8 12 @ 15-17.5
    VC1755 A7 8-10 12.5 @ 18-20.5
    VC1804 B24 6.5-8.5 10 @ 12-14
    VC1805 M13 6-8 12 @ 14.5-15.5
    VC1807 B25 5-7 8 @ 13-15
    VC1808 B26 5-7 8 @ 11-13
    VC1809 B27 5-7 9 @ 10-12
    VC1812 B30 5-7 12 @ 11.75-14

    The following listing (HEI) is as follows: The first four part number
    listings are the 4 numbers that are most commonly used in a Chevrolet
    performance application. The "AR12" can is the most versatile and user-
    friendly unit for a good performance street engine. The AR 15 and AR23
    are almost identical, with only slight variations in their "start-stop"
    specs. The "AR31" can is the HEI equivalent to the "B28" Hi-Perf can
    used on the early engines: The advance comes in very quick on this unit
    – too quick for many performance engines. Do not use this very quick
    unit unless you have a cam/engine combination that really needs an
    advance like this. It can be used as a tuning aid for problem engines
    that do not respond well to other timing combinations, and can be
    successfully used in applications where direct manifold vacuum is
    applied to the can (see paragraph and discussion on this above)

    After this, the listing is by Echlin part number. All GM HEI vacuum
    advance units are interchangeable, so you can use a Cadillac or GMC
    Truck unit on your Vette, if that’s what you want to do.

    HEI Distributors:

    P/N ID# Application Starts @ "Hg Max Adv
    (Distr. Degrees @ "Hg.)

    VC1838 AR12 1975 350 Buick 7-9 7 @ 10-12

    VC1843 AR15 1977 305 All Exc. Hi Alt, Exc, Calif. 3-5 7.5 @ 9-11
    1974 400 All w/2-bbl
    1977 305 El Camino
    1976 262 Monza Exc. Calif
    1976 350 Vette Hi Perf, Incl. Calif
    1975 350 Z-28
    1977 305 Buick Skylark

    VC1853 AR23 1976 350 All Calif. 5-7 7.5 @ 11-12.5
    1976 350 Vette Calif., Exc. Hi Perf
    1976 400 All, Exc. Calif
    1975 350 4-bbl
    1974 350 All w/1112528 Distr.
    1978 350/400 Heavy Duty Truck, Exc. Calif, Exc. Hi Alt.

    VC1862 AR31 2-4 8 @ 6-8


    VC1703 N/A 1978-79 Vette Special Hi Perf N/A N/A
    1979 305 El Camino Calif.
    1978-79 350 Blazer & Suburban
    1979 Buick 305/350

    VC1825 AR1 1976 454 Caprice, Impala 3-5 9 @ 6-8
    1975 454 Caprice, Chevelle, Monte, Suburban

    VC1826 AR2 5-7 12 @ 10-13

    VC1827 AR3 5-7 9 @ 9-11

    VC1828 AR4 1975-76 350 Buick & Olds 6-9 10 @ 12-14
    1976 350 Pontiac

    VC1831 AR7 6-8 12 @ 14-16

    VC1832 AR8 1975-76 455 Buick Electra 4-6 12 @ 12-14

    VC1833 AS1 1975-76 500 Cadillac Exc. Calif. 4-6 14 @ 15-16

    VC1834 AR9 4-6 13 @ 13-16

    VC1835 AS2 1975-76 350 Olds 5.5-7.5 12 @ 15-17

    VC1836 AR10 1977 305 All Hi Alt, Exc. Calif. 3-5 9 @ 11-13
    1977 350 All exc. Calif.
    1977 350 Vette Exc. Calif, Exc. Hi Perf
    1976 305 All Exc. Calif
    1976 350 All Exc. Vette, Exc. Calif
    1976 350 Vette Exc. Calif., Exc. Hi Perf
    1975 262, 350 All w/2-bbl carb
    1975 350 All 4-bbl w/ 1112880 & 1112888 Distr.
    1977 305 Chev Truck Light Duty
    1975-76 350 El Camino 2-bbl

    VC1837 AR11 1976 305 Blazer, Exc. Calif 6-8 12.5 @ 10.5-13.5
    1976 350/400/455 Pontiac 4-bbl

    VC1839 AR13 4-6 12 @ 11-13

    VC1840 AR14 1975-76 350/400/455 Pontiac Firebird 6-8 10 @ 9-12

    VC1841 AS3 1975-76 500 Cadillac Calif. 5-7 10 @ 13-14

    VC1842 AS4 1976 350 Olds Cutlass 5-7 12 @ 13-15

    VC1844 AR16 3-5 12 @ 13.5-15.5

    VC1845 AS5 1978-79 425 Cadillac w/F.I. 4-6 14 @ 14-16
    1977 425 Cadillac

    VC1846 AR17 1977 301 Buick Skylark 3-6 13 @ 10-13
    1977 301 Pontiac

    VC1847 AS6 1978 403 Motor Home 4-6 12 @ 12-14
    1977-79 350/403 Buick LeSabre Hi Alt, Riviera, Olds
    1977-79 350/403 Pontiac Hi Alt

    VC1848 AR18 4-6 12 @ 9-12

    VC1849 AR19 4-6 12 @ 7-10

    VC1850 AR20 1977 350/400 Pontiac 4-6 10 @ 8-11

    VC1851 AR21 1977-79 350 Buick LeSabre, Century 5-7 12 @ 11-13
    1978-79 350 Pontiac

    VC1852 AR22 77-78 305/350/400 Chev Truck, Heavy Duty 7-9 5 @ 12-14
    1975-76 350/400 Chev Truck Heavy Duty

    VC1854 AR24 3-5 13 @ 10-13

    VC1855 AS7 1977-79 260 Olds Cutlass 3-5 15 @ 10-12

    VC1856 AR25 3-6 15 @ 10-14

    VC1857 AR26 3-6 12 @ 13-16
    VC1858 AR27 1978-79 305 All 3-6 9 @ 11-13
    1978 350 Camaro
    1978 305 Chev Truck, M/T, Light Duty
    1978 350 Chev Truck Hi Alt
    1978 305/350 Buick & Olds
    1978-79 305 Pontiac

    VC1859 AR28 1979 350 Vette Exc Hi Perf 3-6 10 @ 9-12
    1978-79 305 w/1103282 Distr., Incl. El Camino A/T
    1979 350 Camaro, Impala, Nova, Malibu, Monte
    1979 350 Suburban
    1979 350 Buick Century
    1978 305/350 Buick & Olds
    1978-79 305 Pontiac Hi Alt.

    VC1860 AR29 3-6 12 @ 10-13

    VC1861 AR30 1978-79 301Buick 3-5 13 @ 11-13
    1979 301 Olds
    1978-79 301 Pontiac

    VC1863 AR32 2-4 10 @ 11-13

    VC1864 AR33 1978 305 Chev Truck, A/T, Light Duty 4.5-6.5 13 @ 11-13

    VC1865 AR34 1973-74 350 Vette Special Hi Perf 3-5 15 @ 8.5-11.5

    VC1866 AS8 1978-79 425 Cadillac w/carb 3-5 14 @ 13-15

    VC1867 AS9 2-4 10 @ 8-10

    VC1868 AR35 1979 305 Chev Truck & El Camino 2-4 10 @ 6-9
    1979 305 Buick & Olds
    1979 305 Pontiac A/T

    VC1869 AS10 2-4 12 @ 8-11
  2. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Dec 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    Thanks for this info. We were having trouble with a friends '57 fitted with an HEI today. Good article.:waytogo:
  3. dirtynails

    dirtynails Registered Member

    Aug 28, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Gosport, Indiana
    use ported vacuum or not?

    Well on my qjet it was always the ported vacuum port that was supposed to get hosed to the vacuum advance. From reading this article it seems I have to reconsider everything. It's got me confused.
  4. southernspeed

    southernspeed 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Dec 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    It does mention there that some vehicles under certain emmisions controls used the ported vac and less timing to lower nox.
  5. 76zimmer

    76zimmer Flyin Rat Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Nov 14, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Kzoo, Mi
    Wow, thats pretty in depth, and explained very well.....thanks for the posting, it should be a reference to all the "engine doesn't have any power, or engines seems lame" type threads...
  6. rcamacho

    rcamacho 1/2 ton status

    Jul 1, 2004
    Likes Received:
    Great Article!

    Very nice article. Having recently re-curved my HEI distributor I can validate that the adjustable vacuum advance cans do come on way too early for most applications. For my engine I need an advance that starts around 8-9"Hg and is all in by 12"Hg or so with ~16 degrees crank advance. Looks like I'll be going with the AR12/VC1838 vacuum advance canister.

    Anyone want a shiny new ACCEL Adjustable Vacuum Advance (HEI) can?:laugh:
  7. Kenny78

    Kenny78 1/2 ton status

    Nov 7, 2007
    Likes Received:
    Around Tulsa, Oklahoma
    This sounds familiar... Still a great article that needs to be impressed in the memories of all backwoods hack tuners like me.
    Im computer retarded! Search stripping out emmissions stuff or look through my posts.
    Thanks 38377k5 for helping me out with linking things. The post I was referring to is here
    Last edited: May 30, 2008
  8. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Jul 22, 2001
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    Mesa , Arizona USA
    My 83 in full emissions dress gets the ported , passes emissions , runs fine enough to move the rig and chirp the tires into second with the locker . To be fair I did try manifold on the 83 , and it didn't run worth a crap , didn't want to mess with making it run right , I just put it the way Detroit intended and pass emissions and wheel .

    My 70 Chevelle is being built differently and will be running manifold vacuum
    like it should :D

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