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Tips on replacing body mount bushings

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dasanii19, Jan 1, 2007.

  1. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    How do I get the bolts out of my body mount bushings? I can see the bolt and but on the front body mounts but what about the rest? How would I get to the nuts?
     
  2. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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  3. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    the nuts are captured up in the cab supports... 50/50 shot whether they come out, or spin in the cage... not uncommon to have to cut a window in the flor to get at em if spinning....

    the bed ones are carriage bolts, the ones in the rad support are regular bolts..

    that kit looks like the right one.. I'd plan on new bolts.. you'll also need to reuse the factory cup washers on the 4 under the cab..

    perfect time to go 1' body, comes with bolts too.
     
  4. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    If I Put a 1" body lift on will I have to modify or extend anything like you would have to with a 3"?
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    you'll have to ditch your tailgate springs.. shroud needs a minor trim.. i have a cable shifter so i can't tell ya there, but that should be ok...
     
  6. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    I will definitly take the 1" into consideration.

    Can you give me a quick run down on the whole install if it isnt too complicated? Do I install one bushing at a time? I was thinking one at a time so I dont shift the body too much on accident if I were to take everything loose at once. Ive never done this so any tips will be great, I cant find any info on it in my manual :confused:
     
  7. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    Soak the snot out of them with liquid wrench or PBB panther piss before you try and break them loose.
     
  8. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    best way to do it is one side at a time... crack em loose on one side, then undo the otherside completely. floorjack it up as needed.. install, tighten to snug.. do other side... tighten all...
     
  9. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, thanks. Sounds easy enough ( or did I speak too soon?)

    Can you tell me how many mounts are on my 76'?

    Also, if I put that 1" body lift on will my rear bumper be dropped down and look funny? if so, how would I go about tucking it back up to the body?
     
  10. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    oh, it can be a real b*tch... depending on the rust... can definitely test your tool resources..

    not sure on 76, iirc my 77 had 10...

    your bumpers will be dropped an inch... doesn't look too bad, barely noticable.. i've been running around like that till i do tube bumpers...

    i would think you could redrill/mod factory bumper brackets easy enough to move it up...
     
  11. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    Alright sounds good. So If I do a 1" ill have to get longer bolts right. Can I match these bolt at a specialty hardware shop or do I have to buy them from an auto sorce via, LMC/summit ect. ect. ?
     
  12. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    they come with the 1" kit... check out ORD...
     
  13. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    So your saying the nuts are welded to the body in the cab support area? (makes sense) Your saying they can bust and then thats when ill have to cut a "window" right?

    Also, how do I get liquid wrench up in there, isnt the bolt covered by the bushing? I mean I cant spray it from the top, how do I get this stuff soaked on the bolt?

    Ive been spraying my leaf spring bushing bolts every day with WD40 ( im going to be replacing those as well) Do you think thats doing any good? or do I need to get some liquid wrench?
     
  14. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    yup. they're inside, you can't soak those 4.. the back 4 nuts can be soaked tho. rad support too.. and yeah, if the caged nuts spin, you can cut a window in the floor...

    wd-40 is pretty much useless.. go get some PB Blaster, Sea Foams "deep creep", kroil or some other rust buster...
     
  15. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    I think you answered all my questions, thanks for taking the time to answer them for me.
     
  16. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    IN A JUNKYARD, UNDER A TRUCK*N E Rust Belt
    Just did it on my rusty '87, 1:40 AM, to tired, more pix, advice to follow... Stock parts from LMC. $250 + SH, they're all re-produced from Thailland, etc, but EXACT parts!

    7 07 06 2nd Body Mnts Partz 005.jpg

    7 07 06 2nd Body Mnts Partz 006.jpg

    7 07 06 2nd Body Mnts Partz 007.jpg

    7 07 06 2nd Body Mnts Partz 008.jpg

    7 07 06 2nd Body Mnts Partz 021.jpg
     
  17. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    I ended up having to cut & grind 2 or 3 of the bolts. One of them the bolt broke and only rust was holding it in:eek1::eek1: It was still hard to break loose with a punch and BFH!

    The bolts in the bed have a bead of weld to the body as well you'll need to grind off as well.

    I decided I'm just going to use grade 8 hex heads as replacements:rolleyes:
     
  18. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    Well where the body mounts are under the cab, I see some rust on the floor so im going to have to replace that anyways.

    What gauge sheet metal do I use? Do I just cut the rot out and weld new sheet metal in there then hit it with some primer?
     
  19. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    Yeppers!;)
     
  20. dasanii19

    dasanii19 1/2 ton status

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    Where I work we have 24 gauge, wil that be thick enough? Or do I need something thicker like 20?
     

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