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To Anyone Who MIG Welds....A Little Help, Please! *THIS ONE WORKS!*

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Greg72, Feb 6, 2002.

  1. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    71RestoRod, TRusty, Boss, AZBlazeMan, Frizzlefry, DYeager535, Hammer, BadDog, JMZ, LKJR, Topless84, K5Woody...and all the rest! whew! [​IMG]

    A while back you help me figure out that I wanted to but a MIG welder (not a TIG) for the kinds of projects that I am planning for my K5.

    I've done a lot of research and I've selected the Lincoln Electric SP-175 Plus as the welder I want. Now I'm shopping for the best price. I've been to See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38
     
  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    As far as prices on the welder I cant help ya.
    But Trustyk5 is gonna tell ya the auto dark lense is for light shows with the neighborhood kids. However against his word I got one and love it. Makes it alot easier for us rookies to get everything lined up and ready to pull the trigger. I bought mine from tractor supply for 129. Just test it on the ceiling light before you use it to make sure hte batteries are good each time you use it.

    **WARN**ing, Something winching this way comes! [​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.mccords.s5.com/myk5/index.htm>NashvilleK5</a>
     
  3. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    Hey guy, you didn't list my name but I have had some experience on the subject. Personally unless you want portability, I wouldn't go with the 175. You get much more power and range of abilities (in a set location) with the 200 series. And the website lists them at $1057.00 walk out. That's $400 over what you're looking at now, but this is truely a piece that you can keep for many many years and will do WHATEVER you ask of it. We have a 255 and it's a very very sweet machine. I think the only diff between the 200 and 255 is digital readout. Anyway, do what you want, but think about it hard. You could save $200 on the hood and get a flip down version, it's not that tuff to nod your head when you're ready to weld.

    Just my .02
    Bryan

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  4. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Yeah, I don't sell welders either, but I can say, after that mail in rebate, that is one hell of a good deal on that welder. Fine choice too btw. But add in a cost for the bottle, depending on what size, (I got 40cube), paid like $100something (forgot, too long ago), and then price to fill up (about $30 for me) and you're set to go. (oh, and get wires).

    As for the auto darkening, I don't have one yet. I bought a normal helmet for like $30 or 40 and I just tilt my head down when I have my hands in posiition. I would definately like to get one though. I don't have any experiences with em, so I can't help you there either. Sorry. But, good find on the welder.
    Boss

    Pic of my truck Before N' After
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter</a>
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    LOL...Brandon's got me pegged. I have tried the auto helmets and just don't like em. I prefer my $29 piece of crap helmet...[​IMG] My prob with the auto helmets is that when you're not welding they are somewhat dark for my liking. Also a trouble light nearby will darken it for you when it's not necessary.
    Jackson makes a nice helmet...but I recomend trying any helmet you're considering on first though. Some helmets are heavy and uncomfortable...

    If you're worried about a 'flash' keep your safety glasses on at all times while welding. They'll cut down the chances of actually burning the eyeballs. Most safety glasses will clear under the helmet...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    LakeTex,

    Hey, no offense intended! I just went back and looked at the "respondents" to my previous post! [​IMG]

    I certainly appreciate your input.....though I'm curious about going so LARGE on the welder. Do you get better welding on the "lower amperage" settings too, or is it just adding capability on the upper end? The reason I'm asking is because I don't know how THICK I will need to weld, and that seems to be the primary reason that people go to the really BIG welders......that plus the "duty cycle" gets longer.

    My welding will consist of:

    Rollcages, Shock Mounts, Spring Perches, Misc Brackets, Rock Sliders, Thin Sheetmetal work.

    I need to meet these requirements, but cost is ALWAYS a factor. The 175 seemed like the "correct" size maching for me, but I'm willing to listen to other ideas if I'm mistaken. [​IMG]



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  7. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    I was able to turn mine down enough to do sheetmetal work on my bob. It's more of a pita to fine tune it to do this, but if you keep a list of gauges of metal and good voltage/wire speeds, getting it back there is easy. (or just mark it on the welder when you dont have digital...lol)

    Man it's really up to you, and I dont mean to make you double think yourself. Some of the guys on this board have the smaller welders and think the world of them so maybe that's the way to go. I do applaud you for getting a 220 cause the little 110 jobbers are pretty sketchy imho.

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  8. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    Let me add to that. I think that your lower amperage settings with the 200 would be adequate, but with the 175, perhaps more than adequate. I dunno. Let Rene give you the lowdown now that I've opened the can of worms.

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  9. Greg, that 175 is the one I was looking at as well, looks like it will fit our needs...small fab jobs. I agree with the rest however that a 200 or 225 would be better in the long run. All depends on the financials you are up against.

    As for the helmet, I have a $30 Jackson and it is nice and light, flips down with minimal force and hasn't started giving me headaches yet. I see the guys in my shop class lifting and dropping the auto-darkening helmets just as much as I do. Like tRusty said, any other bright light like a work light will set them in motion. And if you are doing any welding at night seems like that would be a drag. And at $200+ Ouch!

    Just my .02 however

    '84 K5

    Chevy in my blood.
     
  10. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    hey greg i'm in the market for a mig also. i've been looking at the hobart 175 it costs $559.00 at cyberweld.com (thats with no cart). i've spoken with some of our machinist here at work and they all say that you can't go wrong with a hobart, but i think that they would say the same thing about the big 3. As far as speed glass goes this newbie gett'n one cyberweld has weldit helets for $175 and they also carry hornell speedglas running from newbie$125 all the way up to expert $364 WOW. but thats just my .5 cent

    gime a bucket of chicken with extra skin!
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Laketex,

    One of the things I liked about the "Plus" model was that it has a "continuous" adjustment for amperage, not just a 5-position knob like the standard 175. Supposedly, that "fine tuning" is important at low power.

    I don't mind creating a little "table of settings" to use. I think that will be important to get repeatable and good results....especially when I'm just learning!

    I'd like to also buy some of this "Tree Fiddy" I've been hearing about......is that like flux-wire? [​IMG]


    I hate not getting all the "secret" jokes.....



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  12. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    if you get one of the lightweight hoods made from cardboard, you'll thank yourself later. Can't remember who makes mine, but I love it. It's some sort of paper fiber and riveted at the seams, you'll know it when you see it. Auto darks are overrated imho. A few guys at work have tried them, and have gone back to the old style in a few days..

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Most guys use a sharpie marker for the table of settings...[​IMG] The infinite adjustment is a good thing for thin stuff for sure! My little 110 MIG has two heat settings and an infinite wire speed setting and it can be a challenge on some materials...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  14. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    Tree Fiddy....


    It's a southpark thing. You aren't the only one, dont worry. I've had about 10 people ask me if I needed a new engine. haha. You'll like the infinite adjustability. I was reading on the site about this welder, and I see your point. For what you're doing (probably 1/4 and under) it'll work great. And props to you for choosing Lincoln, I love ours too much. Of course I like the 3 phase ESABs at work a bit better, but that's probably a bit out of your price range. [​IMG]

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  15. As far as a hood goes, the lightweight "cardboard" style is made by Huntsman. A good, inexpensive auto darkening is Hornell Speed Glas. I do have to say that I prefer my $30 Jackson. That is the same style that I learned to weld in.

    Alcoholism isn't a problem, it's a GOAL!!!!!!!
     
  16. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    I love my auto dark helmet.They let me buy one here at work .I dont remember what brand though.The one I have has a big window and is fully adjustable setting wise.You can adjust darkness,sensitivity,and how fast it turns on when you strike an arc.I have used non adjustable ones and I hated them.Its just nice not having to flip up your helmet between spots or stiches to see where you are.

    Some people shouldnt drive anything bigger than their head.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  17. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    They look a little high on the price. www.cyberweld.com/hobhan175wit.html is what I have. Capable of the same stuff as the Miller and Lincoln but cheaper. I'm pretty happy with it. it also came with a cart. Hobart is owned by Miller. It's not quite as good as the Miller 175 but for a DYI at home it's plenty. Most of the parts are interchangable with the Miller 175. Any miller repair place will handle the repairs. It has the same warranty as the Miller also. communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim>coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim</a>
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  18. 71RestoRod

    71RestoRod 1/2 ton status

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    Greg,

    Remember, I’m the rookie in this group. I’d like to think that I represent the “anybody can do it with practice” faction. Having said that, I think your good to go with a good 220v AMERICAN (even though their probably built abroad!) welder. You know you can easily get parts and consumables for Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, etc… These guys responding to your post really know what they’re talking about.

    My welder is a real POS and I knew it when I bought it. I figured I would learn and learn what I want before spending the $$$ for that ESAB that I really wanted. I thought that with skill, the tool didn’t matter that much, but fact is you still can’t polish a turd and you can’t carve with a dull knife.

    I have three helmets that I use for welding. One of them is an antique that I love to use because it’s just plain cool looking. The other one is a flip down that I bought along with my welder and learned to weld with. I still use it when I weld big stuff. Later I picked up a bottom-of-the-line Jackson auto-darkening helmet. The main difference between models/price is the viewing area and adjustable darkening features. Mine is the basic auto-off #10 style. I like using the auto-dark on the sheet metal work because (as a novice) things tend to move around a bit and I just get better results with that helmet. I set a shop light up pointing over my shoulder and am able to really see what’s happening before I commit. With thicker gauge metal, once you strike an arc you can go with it and can see fine. With the thin stuff, it’s a series of tack welds, and repeatedly flipping down is a PITA. A lot of pros just bag the helmet for this type of welding and simply shut their eyes! I wouldn’t recommend it! Another place I like using it is when I am upside down and backwards contorting underneath the tub in a confined space. (BTW, another justification for getting a MIG). Bottom line is you surely don’t need one, but my guess is that you will really like it if you get it.
     
  19. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    From the list of things you're planning to weld, a good 110v can definately handle the candle, if you know what I mean [​IMG]. So, your welder that you're thinking of getting will definately handle it and then some.

    For guys like me with 110v welders, on the thicker stuff, anything above 1/4", you can still weld it by pre-heating the metal first. I would tack weld what needs to be welded first, then heat em up with a torch, to get it red hot and sweatin', and then lay a bead. It'll burn through em with 1 pass too :). Rene taught me that trick with my 110v...thanks Rene! [​IMG].

    Anyhow, here is just two quick reference pics of what my 110v can do. It'll give you an idea of what your 175 can do and a lot more.
    these are two pieces of 1/4" welded together 1 pass.
    http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/p7a68979b53757054e3b6b7b78c11c21e/fdf3d33e.jpg.orig.jpg

    For the thin stuff, like 16 guage and thinner, use .024.
    .030 will require more power to burn up, and you'll just be putting holes in the sheet and get frustrated in thinner stuff. It can be done, which I have before, but you'll find life much easier with .024 on the thin stuff.
    Boss

    Pic of my truck Before N' After
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter</a>
     
  20. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Boss,

    COOL! [​IMG]

    Just to clarify, are those pics using only the welder.....or are those using the "Rene-PreHeating-Technique"?

    Just curious....



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     

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