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Torque Converter Bolts

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by johnny reb, Nov 29, 2001.

  1. johnny reb

    johnny reb 1/2 ton status

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    When we are talking about tightening up the bolts on the flexplate and torque converter are we talking about the bolts on the outside edge of the flexplate or the bolts that are around the "center hole" of the flexplate? Is it possible to get to those bolts around the "center hole" without moving the tranny?

    1986 K5, New GM 350, Edelbrock Intake, K&N Air Filter, Flowtech Headers, Dual 3" Exhaust, 33" Pirelli Scorpion AT, 700R4, 3.42 gears
     
  2. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    You'll have to pull the trans back to get at the flywheel-to-crank bolts, but you should be able to remove the flywheel-to-torque converter bolts without trans removal.

    You should put some locktite on those too, they tend to come loose.

    <font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
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  3. DuneRunner

    DuneRunner 1/2 ton status

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    Like Krazi87 said "You should put some locktite on those too, they tend to come loose"

    Mine came loose about a yr. ago. I thought that it was over. I took it to a shop and after they rooted around for 2 hrs. they found it. Cost me 2 hun. But not a problem now.
    Hope this helped.
    KEN

    DANGIT it's not a bronco!
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  4. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    No. To get to the Flex-plate to Crank-shaft bolts you'l have to unbolt the Torque-converter and slide the tranny back.

    <font color=black> -Tommy
    <font color=red>"To secure peace is to prepare for war..."
     
  5. johnny reb

    johnny reb 1/2 ton status

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    So the tapping that sometimes results from the loosening of the flywheel or torque converter bolts is the result of the bolts on the outer edge of the flexplate coming loose? I have a tapping that I think is coming from that area but I'm not sure which bolts I should be looking at.

    1986 K5, New GM 350, Edelbrock Intake, K&N Air Filter, Flowtech Headers, Dual 3" Exhaust, 33" Pirelli Scorpion AT, 700R4, 3.42 gears
     
  6. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Put lots of locktite on them. Put blue on there so you can get them off without heat. I had two of the three shacke loose on my Firebird and I though I had a bad rod knock. I tightened all three with locktite and no problems anymore.

    86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&35"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  7. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Yes you can get to these bolts w/o removing or having to move the tranny. Crank the ones you can see, then go to the front of the motor and turn the crank bolt, when the crank moves the flywheel/ flexplate will move with it. Then do the rest.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
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  8. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

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    There isn't enought room to get to the crank bolts with the transmisson in place. The converter on slides in a max of half an inch. Between the outward bow of the torque converter and the tight spot you can't get a wrench up in there unless you are running some real high stall converter.

    Mike

    The jeep eater ......jeep it's what's for dinner[​IMG]
     
  9. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    The converter on slides in a max of half an inch.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I just put my TH350 in on Sunday. When I got it in, the tranny lined right up. However, there is about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap b/t the torque converter and flywheel. I am very paraniod about just pulling the converter out to meet the flywheel since I know having the converter in wrong means blown up tranny.

    Is that much of a gap usual or is something wrong in my setup? Thanks!!

    BTW, I will use locktite on the bolts, thanks for the tip. I was kind of paranoid about that too.
     
  10. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    It might be the tranny housing to motor bolts. I've had mine loosen up before and it made a sometimes knocking noise.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Not always. From what I've seen of broken flexplates, they make a "knocking" (guess it could be tapping too : ) noise when under load. Like at idle, giving it gas to try and climb a fairly steep hill.

    Of course, loose or missing bolts will make noise too, just that the flexplate can be broken, and its fairly common.
     
  12. monte0172

    monte0172 1/2 ton status

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    you dont want the converter to sit all tha way back but you need to take up some of that slack. the best way that i have found to do this is to put flat washers in between the converter and the flexplate. you only want the converter to be able to pull out of the pump about a 1/4 inch.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'll second the "take up the slack" comment.

    Had my TH400 pump destroyed because the converter was put together "wrong" (too thin apparently, or too much taken off of the flexplate to converter bolt lugs) and sheared the pump drive tangs off after about 50 miles.

    You seat the converter into the tranny TOO far and you'll ruin the seal (learned that right after I learned the converter can be too far out lol) from what I've seen, at least a finger should be able to fit between the bottom of the converter, and the bottom of the tranny case AFTER the converter is bolted to the flexplate. Probably not much more, and not much less than that, unless you have really abnormal fingers lol
     
  14. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks a lot guys. There's probably about a fingers' width in there right now. I'll double check it when I finish it up. If it's too far, I'll throw in a washer in b/t.

    If the converter HAD slid out too far in the midst of me playing with it, it will be ok, just turning and pushing it back in, right? I want to make sure it's catching the pump.

    BTW, is there any way I could make sure the pump is turning? I can hear a slosh when I turn the converter, but I think that might just be the fluid IN the converter.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The pump is what moves the fluid in the tranny, without it making contact, you won't move, its that simple. I figure if you took the tranny apart and measured the depth the converter needed to be while looking at the pump, you'd be able to set it just right, but realistically, I don't believe there is any way to be 100% sure everything is seated correctly, you can't see anything but the gap between the converter and flexplate and tranny case, and use something "close" like a finger, to check.

    I believe if the converter isn't fully seated, you will NOT have a gap at all between the converter and flexplate, so that would be obvious.
     
  16. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Yeah I had that once, at first the mechanic said it's a bad torque converter, so I took it out and I found the tabs of the pump sheared off and the remaining portion was barely catching on the torque conv. and skipping, I replaced the pump gear and the t/c and the knocking didn't go away, I pulled it out again and I found the broken flex plate.
    The funny thing is that it still ran fine but the knocking was scary.
    /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
    IceMan
     

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